一位美國 考古學家曾通過電子郵件說： " 伊拉克戰爭爆發後，我們和其他一些國家的考古學家曾多次懇求美國政府關注戰爭給伊拉克考古遺址帶來的損失。作為考古學家，我們反對發動這場戰爭，我相信世界上大多數的考古學家都這樣想。戰爭給這個國家帶來了無法彌補的損失，這對於整個考古界都是致命的打擊。
"An American archaeologist once said by e-mail: "After the outbreak of the war in Iraq, archaeologists in our country and other countries have repeatedly appealed to the U.S. government to pay attention to the war's damage to Iraqi archaeological sites. As archaeologists, we oppose this war, and I believe most archaeologists in the world think so. The war caused irreparable damage to the country, which was a fatal blow to the archaeological community as a whole. "
摘要： 敘利亞大馬士革薩拉丁墓入口處殘留的柱廊。(李亞楠/圖) 這些古老文物所象徵的燦爛往昔，與文物所在國在現實世界中的尷尬處境構成了過於突出的反差。使其在和平年代往往淪為政治強人的炫耀物，在動盪時期則被當作牟利工具隨意盜竊和轉手。 “我十分希望能努力創設一項機制，將阿富汗的重要文物合法地帶到…
Abstract: the portico at the entrance of Saladin tomb in Damascus, Syria. (Li Yanan / Tu) The splendid past symbolized by these ancient cultural relics is an overly striking contrast to the embarrassing situation of the country in which they are located in the real world. In times of peace, it tends to become a conspicuous display of political strongmen, and in times of turmoil, it is used as a means of profit-making and arbitrary theft and transfer. "I very much hope to work hard to create a mechanism to bring the important cultural relics in Afghanistan legally to...
2003年3月19日， 伊拉克戰爭爆發。4月9日，媒體報道南方名城 巴士拉的博物館遭到搶劫。4月10日，各大媒體中都充斥著美軍進入 巴格達、伊拉克國家博物館遭暴徒哄搶的報道。 吉布森說："我的第一反應是新聞中講的是真的，不是在做夢，美國部隊的行為是不負責任的。他們已經知道了這座博物館的重要性了，我早就告訴過他們。他們本應採取保護措施的，那裡根本不應該遭搶。"後來，成百上千位外國考古學家聯名向 白宮抗議，施加壓力。4月16日， 美國軍隊對博物館地區採取安全保護行動，博物館工作人員返回博物館。亞里山大·約菲說："對伊拉克國家博物館的搶劫是現代考古史上最為野蠻行徑，這是伊拉人的損失，也是全人類的損失。"
這些古老文物所象徵的燦爛往昔，與文物所在國在現實世界中的尷尬處境構成了過於突出的反差。使其在和平年代往往淪為政治強人的炫耀物，在動盪時期則被當作牟利工具隨意盜竊和轉手。
“我十分希望能努力創設一項機制，將阿富汗的重要文物合法地帶到海外、進行巡迴展出。”這是井上隆史策劃231件阿富汗國寶級文物進行海外巡展的初衷。但一切並不容易。
單從這座佔地面積超過4.5萬平方米的巨大建築的外觀，很難窺見其中的窘迫曲折之處。像底格里斯河東岸許多薩達姆時代殘留的公共建築一樣，伊拉克國家博物館擁有仿照伊什塔爾城門外觀建造、兩側栽種著棕櫚樹的高大正門，新添置的安檢儀器和重新佈置的展廳給人的第一印象不亞於許多富裕國家的類似場所。它們都是“沙漠女王”格特魯德·貝爾的遺產：1926年，貝爾出於“將兩河流域文物永遠保存在當地人民手中”的善意，創建了巴格達文物博物館，並親手將第一批發掘自巴比倫遺址的石像和石刻置入館中。歷經九十多年變遷，最初的獨棟小樓被擁有兩層展廳、巨大地庫和全副武裝警衛的氣派建築群所取代，館藏文物數量突破了18萬件。右側裙樓內的銘牌還標註著先驅者的名字：“貝爾樓”。
但這也是貝爾女士在巴格達留下的唯一有形印記。她曾衷心致力的其他一切：消解伊拉克各宗派和族群間的仇恨，建立有威信的民選政府，普及高等教育……最終都遭遇了令人難堪的失敗，並且反過來還威脅到了她艱難保存下來的那些文物的命運。在21世紀初的全球藝術品黑市上，正是來自伊拉克、敘利亞、阿富汗、也門等動盪地區的流失文物構成了地下交易的主體。“社交網絡和電子商務的流行降低了售賣非法文物的門檻。現在每天有超過10萬件文物掛在亞馬遜、eBay這類主流電商的網站上，其中80%來源不明，”牛津大學瀕危文物高級研究員尼爾·布羅迪在郵件中告訴筆者，“換句話說，要麼是仿冒品，要麼是來自非法盜取或走私。但這又是一個千萬美元級的大市場;從監守自盜的伊拉克官員到‘伊斯蘭國’恐怖分子，有太多買家在詢價，抱有投機心理的私人收藏者則不惜助紂為虐。”
事實上，自2011年3月危機全面爆發以來，敘利亞很多歷史文化古蹟橫遭炮火和盜匪摧殘，大馬士革老城難得“獨善其身”，但27日的爆炸終結了老城的“幸運”。人們不禁擔心，敘利亞的燦爛遺產究竟還有多少能留給後人?
目睹了考古遺址與珍貴文物迭遭破壞、流失的境況。2017年，當231件阿富汗珍貴文物開啟在中國的巡迴展覽之後，筆者又從巡展策劃人、日本東京藝術大學特聘教授井上隆史處獲得了關於這批珍寶的來源及其困境的更多信息。誠如井上所言，隨著文物巡展在中國以及世界各地陸續舉辦，越來越多人將認識到阿富汗文化遺產的魅力以及對其加以保護的重要性。但只要戰爭和動盪不消除，人類的古老歷史依舊面臨逐漸燃燒成燼的危險。
賈姆斯說，據敘文化部統計，目前已有5個主要遺址被完全毀壞，無法修復，這其中就有與大馬士革老城同為世界文化遺產的阿勒頗古城。這座建於12世紀的城市大部分已經在炮火中毀壞，其中最駭人的一幕發生在今年4月。一份上傳至網絡的視頻顯示，城中一座擁有近900年曆史的著名清真寺的宣禮塔被炮彈擊中後轟然坍塌。另一處世界遺產、位於敘利亞北部的古村落群也遭到大範圍破壞，不過這裡的罪魁禍首是趁火打劫的文物竊賊。賈姆斯說，這些被遺棄的村落裡，古蹟遭到大規模違法開發和挖掘，遺址遭到無法挽回的破壞。
誰的歷史誰的遺產
目前，伊拉克登記在案的上萬處古蹟中，約1800處位於“伊斯蘭國”佔領區內。據伊拉克旅遊和古蹟部消息，不到一年的時間內，在“伊斯蘭國”控制的土地上，有近300座具有特殊歷史價值的宗教設施被毀滅。
At present, of the tens of thousands of historic sites registered in Iraq, about 1,800 are located in the occupied areas of the Islamic State. According to the Ministry of Tourism and Monuments in Iraq, in less than a year, nearly 300 religious facilities of special historical value were destroyed on the land controlled by the Islamic State.
破壞
四天破壞三座千年古城遺址
2月26日，“伊斯蘭國”發佈視頻，顯示其成員用大錘、電鑽等工具在摩蘇爾博物館大肆毀壞珍貴文物。視頻中，一名武裝人員說，“即使它們價值連城，我們也不在乎”。
摩蘇爾博物館是除伊拉克博物館外，伊拉克最重要的博物館，有四個主要展廳。伊拉克官方稱，有大約90件物品被毀壞或受損，絕大部分都是文物原物。摩蘇爾考古學院教授阿米爾·朱邁裡說：“我完全震驚了。這就是災難。這些文物毀了以後，我們就無法繼續為摩蘇爾的文明感到驕傲了。”倫敦大學學院的埃莉諾·羅布森表示，破壞石像的視頻真實可靠，“令人心碎”。
隨後的三年多里，陸續有半數左右的丟失文物從提克里特等地被追回，仍有包括47件國寶級珍品在內的七千餘件文物至今下落不明。2006年，歷史可追溯至公元前2400年的恩鐵美納王石像在紐約的藝術品黑市被美國海關截獲，沒有人知道此前幾年中它經歷了什麼。
Over the next three years, about half of the lost cultural relics were recovered from Tikrit and other places. More than 7,000 cultural relics, including 47 national treasures, are still missing. In 2006, the statue of King Ntiemena, dating back to 2400 B.C., was intercepted by U.S. Customs on the art black market in New York. No one knows what it went through in the previous few years.
貝爾的歐洲後代回到中東
拉希姆及其新上司艾哈邁德·卡米爾·穆罕默德面臨著一系列考驗，資金短缺僅僅是其中難度最低的一項：“全球油價穩定之後，政府增加了對文化事業的撥款，美國國務院和一些知名大學也為我們提供幫助。”
Rahim and his new boss, Ahmed Camille Mohammed, are facing a series of tests. The shortage of funds is only one of the hardest: "After global oil prices stabilized, the government increased funding for cultural undertakings, and the State Department and some well-known universities helped us."
約旦文物部門有關負責人阿爾·薩德表示，希望這個系統能被推而廣之，尤其是在伊拉克這個深受戰爭傷害、擁有豐富文物遺產的國家。目前，總部位於美國紐約的世界文化遺產基金會已與伊拉克文物部門展開有關合作。
Al Sade, the head of the Jordanian Heritage Department, said he hoped the system would be promoted, especially in Iraq, a country that has suffered from war and has a rich heritage. At present, the World Heritage Foundation, headquartered in New York, USA, has cooperated with the Iraqi Heritage Department.
追索文物的行動，在搶劫發生後不久就展開了。本地追回的文物，有些是被普通民眾送回來的，有些是警察追回的。從民眾的行動中，可以看出他們多麼珍視本國的文化遺產。蘇雷曼·阿斯旺德老人是巴格達的一位珠寶商人，聽到巴格達國家博物館遭搶十分痛心，決定幫忙追索被盜文物。"一個女孩兒來到我的店裡想賣給我一些印章。我沒有盤問這些東西從哪兒來，就付給她1300美元，把博物館的這92枚印章買了回來。"講這個故事的時候，阿斯旺德老人兩眼滿含淚水，"我們自己的同胞來偷文物就像是兒子來偷父親。 伊拉克可以重建，但是我們永遠無法重建歷史。"
The pursuit of cultural relics was launched shortly after the robbery. Some of the local cultural relics were returned by ordinary people, some of which were recovered by the police. From the actions of the masses, we can see how much they treasure their cultural heritage. Suleiman Aswand, a jewelry merchant in Baghdad, was distressed to hear of the looting of the Baghdad National Museum and decided to help find the stolen artifacts. "A girl came to my shop and wanted to sell me some stamps. I didn't ask where they came from, so I paid her $1,300 and bought the 92 seals from the museum. "Old Aswand's eyes were full of tears when he told this story," our own countrymen stole artifacts like sons stole fathers. Iraq can be rebuilt, but we can never rebuild history. "
2015年，美國錢幣學會發布的一份研究報告顯示：自敘利亞內戰爆發以來，國際錢幣交易市場上帕爾米拉古幣(鑄造於公元3世紀)的數量出現了勢頭驚人的增長，顯然與“伊斯蘭國”佔領帕爾米拉並將當地文物出售套現有關。
In 2015, a study by the American Coin Society showed that since the outbreak of the civil war in Syria, the number of Palmyra coins (minted in the 3rd century A.D.) on the international money exchange market has increased dramatically, apparently in connection with the occupation of Palmyra by the Islamic State and the sale of local cultural relics.
敘利亞本地文物鑑定專家哈桑對筆者證實了這一推斷，他提到：“伊斯蘭國”官員很早就開始使用加密通訊軟件Whatsapp吸引有財力的國外收藏家“在線看貨”，繼而通過土耳其的走私網絡將文物偷運出境。他們還懂得利用Facebook上的考古愛好者群組挑選潛在的買家，隨後發私信向其推薦“尖貨”。
Hassan, a Syrian expert on local cultural relics, confirmed this inference, noting that officials in the Islamic States had long used Whatsapp, an encrypted communications software, to attract wealthy foreign collectors to "watch online" and smuggle cultural relics out of the country via Turkish smuggling networks. They also know how to use Facebook's archaeological enthusiasts to select potential buyers and then send them a personal letter recommending "top-notch items."
在博物館院落內因停電而靜默無聲的噴水池前，筆者默默注視著那些就地堆放的神廟柱頭、浮雕碎塊和殘缺的羅馬時代神像;文物拯救者們歷盡千難萬險，將它們從帕爾米拉和阿勒頗危城中搶運而出，如今卻只能草草擱置於此，等待遙不可及的修復歸位。此刻，在這裡，只有價格，沒有價值。
Before the silent fountains in the museum's courtyard due to power cuts, I watched in silence the piles of temple pillars, relief fragments, and mutilated Roman-era gods that had been laid up in place; the rescuers of the monuments, through all odds and ends, rushed them out of the perilous cities of Palmira and Aleppo, and now had to put them on the ground. Waiting for the unreachable restoration of homing. At the moment, there is only price and no value.
井上隆史的事業
2018年2月1日，為期三個月的“文明的迴響：來自阿富汗的古代珍寶”展覽在成都博物館開幕。231件(套)由阿富汗國家博物館和巴黎吉美博物館專家精心挑選出的珍貴文物齊齊亮相，最終吸引超過50萬人次的參觀者。事實上，自2006年10月首次開啟境外巡展以來，這批歷史超過2000年的珍寶已在11個國家、23家博物館間流轉，始終不曾返鄉。這一動議獲得了阿富汗前總統卡爾扎伊的特許：從安全角度考慮，將文物留在危機四伏的喀布爾是不負責任的。但要將巡展延續下去，就必須不斷找到新的場館。
On February 1, 2018, a three-month exhibition entitled "Echoes of Civilization: Ancient Treasures from Afghanistan" opened at the Chengdu Museum. A total of 231 precious artifacts, carefully selected by experts from the National Museum of Afghanistan and the Jimei Museum in Paris, were unveiled, eventually attracting more than 500,000 visitors. In fact, since the first overseas exhibition was opened in October 2006, these treasures, which have been more than 2000 years old, have been circulating among 23 museums in 11 countries and have never returned home. The move was granted by former Afghan President Hamid Karzai: it is irresponsible, from a security standpoint, to leave cultural relics in crisis-ridden Kabul. But if we want to continue the tour, we must constantly find new venues.
本次巡展發起人之一、東京藝術大學特聘教授井上隆史向筆者講述了“文物流浪記”的前因後果：由於身處古代絲綢之路的關鍵節點，見證過無數世界級帝國和異質文明間的碰撞融合，阿富汗的考古遺址以及出土文物罕見地兼有希臘、羅馬、波斯、印度、中國等多種古文明的特徵，自1920年代起就成為歐洲和日本考古學者競相關注的焦點。但在1979年，延續超過60年的國際考古發掘首先被蘇聯入侵所打斷;1989年蘇軍撤出後，經久不息的內戰和準無政府狀態更使已出土的文物也面臨被摧毀和盜賣的風險。從那時起直至1996年，阿富汗國家博物館失去了半數以上的藏品，希臘化古城阿伊哈努姆的遺址和蒂拉丘地的墓葬先後被洗劫一空。而隨著排斥異教文明的塔利班勢力在1996年入主中央政權，新的浩劫接踵而至：列入聯合國世界文化遺產名錄的巴米揚大佛在2001年春天被炸燬，從喀布爾國立博物館流出的古代佛像和金幣出現在了巴基斯坦邊境的黑市上。噩耗接二連三地傳入國際考古學者耳中，但他們對此完全無能為力。
Inoue Longshi, one of the sponsors of the exhibition and a special professor at Tokyo University of Art, told the author about the causes and consequences of the "Cultural and Logistics Wave". Being at the key node of the ancient Silk Road, he witnessed the collision and fusion of numerous world-class empires and heterogeneous civilizations, the archaeological sites and unearthed cultural relics in Afghanistan rarely concurrently. Characterized by many ancient civilizations, such as Greece, Rome, Persia, India and China, it has been the focus of attention of European and Japanese archaeologists since the 1920s. But in 1979, more than 60 years of international archaeological excavations were first interrupted by the Soviet invasion; after the withdrawal of the Soviet army in 1989, prolonged civil war and quasi-anarchy put the unearthed cultural relics at risk of being destroyed and stolen. From then on until 1996, the National Museum of Afghanistan lost more than half its collection, and the ruins of the Greek ancient city of Aihanoum and the tombs of the Tirashu site were looted. As the Taliban, who rejected pagan civilization, came to power in 1996, new catastrophes ensued: the Bamiyan Buddha, listed on the UN World Heritage List, was blown up in the spring of 2001, and ancient Buddhist statues and gold coins flowing from the Kabul National Museum appeared on the black market on the Pakistan border. Bad news has been introduced to the ears of international archaeologists one after another, but there is nothing they can do about it.
2001年底塔利班政權的崩潰一度被視為希望之始。但和平只維持了短短几年：2006年，在喀布爾安全形勢急劇惡化的背景下，阿富汗政府和國家博物館委託法國方面將231件國寶級文物帶往歐洲巡展，以待局勢穩定後再物歸原主。數年後，長期致力於搜尋阿富汗流失文物的井上接過了這份工作，並推動其首次進入中國。
At the end of 2001, the collapse of the Taliban regime was once seen as the beginning of hope. But peace lasted only a few years: in 2006, against the backdrop of a deteriorating security situation in Kabul, the Afghan government and the National Museum commissioned the French side to take 231 national treasures to Europe for exhibition, pending a stable situation before returning to their original owners. Several years later, Wells, long dedicated to searching for lost cultural relics in Afghanistan, took over the job and pushed it into China for the first time.
“我十分希望能努力創設一項機制，將阿富汗的重要文物合法地帶到海外、進行巡迴展出。”井上隆史告訴筆者。但一切並不容易：阿富汗人的民族自尊心和對外來者的疑懼使他們難以輕易接受帶有同情意味的幫助。在2006年，國寶“出境避難”一事幾乎因為國民議會的反對而胎死腹中。而高昂的保險費用以及十多年歐美巡展造成的審美疲勞，又使得珍寶要找到下一家合適場館變得日益困難。文博學界仍在為此努力。
"I very much hope that efforts will be made to create a mechanism to legally bring important cultural relics from Afghanistan overseas for exhibition tours." Inoue Takashi told the author. But it's not easy: Afghans'national pride and fear of outsiders make it difficult for them to accept compassionate help. In 2006, the national treasure "exit asylum" almost died because of the opposition of the national assembly. High insurance costs and aesthetic fatigue caused by more than a decade of tours to Europe and the United States have made it increasingly difficult for treasures to find the next suitable venue. Wen Bo is still working hard in this field.
與此同時，時斷時續的爆炸聲依然在喀布爾街頭回響。距今75年前，偉大的考古學家馬克·斯坦因長眠於此，彌留之際的心願是親眼見到阿富汗的寶藏。而在2018年的今天，那些曾令他魂牽夢縈的珍寶正在中國等待著下一家展館，以及遙遙無期但或許終有一日的——還鄉。
Meanwhile, the intermittent explosion is still echoing in the streets of Kabul. Seventy-five years ago, Mark Stein, the great archaeologist, lay dormant, dying to see the treasures of Afghanistan. And on this day in 2018, the treasures that once haunted him are waiting in China for the next Pavilion and, perhaps one day at a time, for him to return home.
文化文化，一個國家如果沒有了歷史文物，那麼這個國家的文明將不復存在。
Culture and culture, a country without historical relics, then the country's civilization will no longer exist.
好在我們出生在一個和平的年代，在一代代人用鮮血與身體鑄造的堡壘裡，在中國這一個世界強國，我們在享受現在，回味歷史，不斷髮掘著我們偉大的中華五千年文物遺產與文明。在現在的經濟社會，文物文化已經與我們的生活息息相關，保護與傳承，經濟與價值!
Fortunately, we were born in a peaceful era, in a castle made of blood and body for generations, in China, a world power, we are enjoying the present, recalling the history, and constantly excavating our great Chinese cultural heritage and civilization of 5000 years. In today's economic society, cultural relics and culture have been closely related to our lives, protection and inheritance, economy and value!
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