一樣的鐵匠鋪，一樣的午後和哨音，一樣的老街、木板門、磚瓦房，在一塊硬紙板上寫下“出售大米”，用鐵絲懸掛在牆上當做招牌……
這裡是全椒袁家灣老街，一箇中國腹部 (內陸) 上的千年老街。
我們很多人，都是出自這樣的老街――這種中國城鎮的縮影，有點雜亂，但仍有炊煙。
有很多時候，不願意談自己的出生地也不願意去想，但在另一個時空，在全椒，你好像與故鄉和解了，你好像，回到了另一個並不是自己故鄉的故鄉。
其實是你與過去握手言和。在異鄉的午後，從另一個城鎮之上，在另一個街頭，在與陌生人的對談之中。
全椒太平文化廣場夜景
A night view of Quanjiao urban area
The similar blacksmith shop, similar old streets, wooden doors, brick houses, and even the similar shop sign “rice for sale” hang on the wall...
This is Yuanjiawan Old Street, a time-honored inland street in China.
Many of us are from such old streets that are the epitomes of Chinese towns, a bit messy, but there is still cooking smoke.
Sometimes people don‘t want to talk about their birthplace or even don’t want to think about it, but in Quanjiao, things are quite different, people love the place although it is not their hometown.
In fact, you shake hands and make peace with the past when talking with strangers in the street of another town on the afternoon of a different day.
悠悠石板橋
A time-honored stone bridge
全椒以並不尋常的方式存在著，在這個省份，它的特別之處太多了，諷刺文學鼻祖吳敬梓在這裡長大，唐朝名相張洎、明代“四大高僧”之一憨山大師的故居也在這裡。
地處皖東江淮丘陵地帶，北緯31°51′-32°15′，東經117°49′-118°25′，境內擁有三山、三湖兩河，山水環繞，沒有知道它們從哪一年開始，就存在於此，草木山石知道，它們不說話。
“中國十大最美鄉村”―― 黃慄樹村
Huanglishu Village, one of the top 10 beautiful villages in China
而這個縣，從西漢起就有了，古稱椒邑，至今已有2200多年。
據《漢書•地理志》記載，漢高祖四年即公元前203年置全椒縣，隸屬淮南國；漢武帝元狩元年即公元前122年起，隸屬九江郡；三國時全椒為吳魏爭戰之地，近60年廢縣；西晉時復置，《晉書 • 卷十五 • 地理下》記載隸屬淮南郡；東晉、南北朝及隋朝開皇年間近300年全椒廢縣，據正史記載，縣域內先後僑置南譙州、南譙郡、山桑縣、嘉平縣、北譙郡、北譙縣、豐樂縣，後改置臨滁郡、滁水縣；隋朝大業初年即公元605年起，復置全椒縣。
太平橋的早晨
Taiping Bridge in the morning
此後的1400餘年，僅明朝洪武初期全椒縣被短暫廢除，縣名一直沿用至今。
在這個區域內，你停留的每一分鐘都帶有柔軟且如夢幻般的特質，那些山川和湖泊，如同你一直想去卻未曾到過的未竟之地。
Quanjiao exists in an unusual way and has many attractions. Wu Jingzi, the founder of Chinese satiric literature, grew up here. It is also the hometown of Zhang Ji, a famous minister in the Tang Dynasty, and Master Hanshan, a well-known monk in the Ming Dynasty.
Located in the eastern Anhui Jianghuai hilly area (31° 51'- 32° 15' northern latitude, 117 ° 49'- 118 ° 25' east longitude), It features three mountains, three lakes and two rivers. No one knows when they came into being. Maybe the plants, mountains and rocks know, but they won’t tell you.
But the county has existed for over 2,200 years since the Western Han Dynasty and is known as Jiaoyi in ancient times.
According to historical records, the county was first chartered in 203 B.C., belonging to Huainan State. Since 122 B.C., it belonged to Jiujiang Prefecture thereafter. During the Three Kingdoms period, it was a battlefield between Wu and Wei and the county administration was abandoned for nearly 60 years. It was re-established during the Western Jin Dynasty, belonging to Huainan Prefecture. Unfortunately, the administration was abandoned again for nearly 300 years in the following dynasties. The county was used as a resettlement for migrants from other prefectures and counties in history. In 605, the county was re-established again.
Ever since then, the name of the county has been used up to now except a short period in the early Ming Dynasty.
Every minute you stay in this county is soft and fantastic. The mountains and lakes are like places you've always wanted but never visited.
全椒太平閣晨光
Twilight over Taiping Pavilion in Quanjiao
我偏愛“椒”字的植物屬性，作為一種芸香科植物，落葉灌木或小喬木，它莫名生出一種小而堅忍的氣質。
然而全椒的“椒”字，是山巔、山丘之義，這是由全椒的地形地貌特徵決定的。
全椒簡稱“椒”，多見“椒邑”“椒地”“椒民”“椒俗”等語。
兩漢時期，全椒境內的襄河水系並不發達，滁河沿岸的地域也不在全椒境內，屬於當時與全椒縣相鄰的阜陵縣地界。
也就是說，漢初為全椒命名時，縣域之內幾乎全是低矮山地和岡丘，全椒因此而得名。明·泰昌版《全椒縣誌·輿地志》“山崗”目下夾註雲：“椒，小山也。全椒小山多，故名也。”
丘陵間的風力發電機
Wind turbines in the hilly land
在古老的傳說中，全椒地域以“椒”標識。南宋歷史地理學家羅泌所撰《路史》卷二十六國名紀三高陽氏後列有椒國，經滄海桑田分封割削之變，至春秋時已為楚之“椒邑”。《左傳》《國語》中均有楚大夫伍舉食邑於椒的記載，古人以邑為氏，故伍舉史稱“椒舉”，其子稱“椒鳴”。
“全椒”地名系根據地形地貌特徵，沿襲古國古邑之名。至今全椒的方言中仍保留有大量漢語古音。
全椒周邊多丘陵地形，草場豐茂
Hilly land and lush meadows around Quanjiao
I am fond of the property of the rutaceous plants, a kind of deciduous shrub or pygmy tree. It is small but persistent.
However, the word “Jiao” in the name of the county stands for mountain top and hill, which is determined by the topographic characteristics of the county.
Quanjiao is called Jiao in brief, the word appears in Jiaodi (land of Jiao), Jiaomin (Jiao people), and Jiaosu (Jiao folk custom).
During the Han Dynasty, the Xianghe River in the county was not well harnessed, and the land along the Chuhe River was not in the county but belonged to Fuling County.
When people chose the name for the county in the early Han Dynasty, they based on the topographic conditions of small hills and hilly land. According to the local annals, the county was thus named because there were too many small hills.
In ancient legends, the land of the county was always ear-marked with “Jiao”. In a geographic book compiled in the Southern Song Dynasty appears a “Jiao State”. In the Spring and Autumn period, “Jiaoyi” was used as the name of the county in the Chu State. In ancient times, people adopted the names of places as their family names. Therefore Wu Ju, a senior official of the Chu State was also called Jiao Ju, and his son, Jiao Ming.
The name of the county comes from the topographic features and originates from the ancient state and prefecture. Up to now, there are still ancient pronunciations in Quanjiao dialect.
吳敬梓紀念館
Wu Jingzi Memorial Museum
這裡是《儒林外史》作者吳敬梓的故鄉，他三十三歲時離開這裡去南京。吳敬梓的生父名雯延，吳敬梓是他的三個兒子中最小的一個，自幼便被過繼給長房吳霖起為嗣。
吳霖起曾任江蘇贛榆縣教諭，在吳敬梓考取秀才的雍正元年(1723年)死去。吳敬梓自小聰明過人，14歲起，便因跟隨父親到各處做官，接觸到官場。
吳霖起死後，不少人覬覦遺產，因吳敬梓是嗣子，便給了他們以可乘之機，於是發生了“兄弟參商，宗族詬誶”的爭產糾紛，甚至是親族衝入家中攫奪其財產。
雖然最終吳敬梓繼承了父親的遺產，但因爭產之事深受刺激。此時的吳敬梓無心做官，對虛偽的人際關係又深感厭惡，亦無意進取功名，他開始揮霍遺產。
可以說，他的“敗家”，是對他人爭產一事的諷刺：在你們看來無比重要的，在我看來卻不值一提。
吳敬梓故居正門
The main entrance of Wu Jingzi's former residence
他以聲色犬馬的生活方式與世俗子弟劃清界限。
胡適曾說，吳的家產是在秦淮嫖掉的。但正是這樣“泥沙一擲金一擔”地敗家，他才能擺脫與宗族之間的聯繫，從貴族降為貧民，以純粹的心境進入到文學創作之中。
Quanjiao is the hometown of Wu Jingzi, the author of The Scholars. Wu Jingzi was the youngest son of the family and his uncle Wu Linqi adopted him in his early childhood. When he was 33, he left for Nanjing.
Wu Linqi served as a military instructor in Ganyu County, Jiangsu. He died in 1723. Wu Jingzi was smart at his young age and became aware of the officialdom when following his father in his official transfer.
After Wu Lin's death, many people coveted the heritage because Wu Jingzi was an adopted son. Therefore, there were disputes over the property among his close relatives, who even rushed into the house to seize the assets.
Although Wu Jingzi eventually inherited the legacy, he was deeply upset by the dispute and became no longer interested in an official career. Because he was tired of the hypocritical interpersonal relationship, he began to squander the legacy.
It can be said that his dissipation of the legacy is a satire on the struggle by others for the property: what important in your opinion is nothing in my mind.
In fact, he distinguished himself from the mundane life by his carnal pleasures.
Hu Shi once said that Wu Jingzi fucked off the family property in whorehouses. After his fall in life from rich to poor, he got rid of the connections with his clan and concentrated on his literary creation...
吳敬梓故居遺園雪景
A snow view of Yiyuan Garden in Wu Jingzi's former residence
全椒縣城的袁家灣，是個“城中島”。古老的襄河穿城而過，四面環水的袁家灣，有四座古橋：積玉橋、湧金橋、紅欄橋、拖板橋。
積玉橋，全椒古代第一名橋，始建於漢初，宋嘉佑二年（1057）建石橋，明代多次復修。
長長的積玉橋，橫跨於襄河之上。積玉橋凝聚的是儒學精神，古代的全椒，凡是成為秀才的，要戴花從積玉橋上，到湧金橋下，然後去學宮拜老師，拜孔子牌位。
全椒老鐵匠鋪
A traditional smithy in Quanjiao
湧金橋，這座三孔石拱橋，始建於明朝崇禎年間，是當地名人金光辰和縣令孔尚則主持建造的，又名奎光橋。湧金橋幾經毀損幾經復修，仍屹立於襄河之上。
挨著的是紅欄橋，原名州門橋，始建於北宋紹聖三年（1096），由高志密出資建造，初名“高公橋”，民國20年（1931）重修，如今為交通要道，橋上車水馬龍人來人往。
正月十六走太平
Taiping Fair on the 16th day of the first lunar month
走過積玉橋，遠遠看到一座城樓似的古建築，這就是著名的奎光樓。始建於明隆慶六年（1572年），為倡導城民尊經重儒，取名尊經閣。明萬曆十六、清順治十年、康熙四年多次重修。清嘉慶年間重修時，為彰顯城民勵學重教，更名奎光樓。
奎光樓是椒城學風的發祥地，為明代王陽明的講壇，吳敬梓也常於樓上讀書作文。他曾在這裡寫道：三十年河東，三十年河西，莫欺少年窮……
袁家灣老街。當初，這一帶生活著包括吳敬梓先祖在內的幾大儒林家族。如今，糖坊、裁縫鋪、篾器行、鐵匠鋪、豆腐坊……一代又一代的人在這裡繁衍生息，一些人可能一輩子不願走出一條街，與古老的手藝與器物對峙一生。
被襄河環繞的全椒袁家灣老街
Yuanjiawan old street block surrounded by the Xianghe River
Yuanjiawan in Quanjiao urban area is an “island in the city”, through which flows the Xianghe River.This water-surrounded area has four ancient bridges: Jiyu, Yongjin, Honglan, and Tuoban.
Jiyu Bridge, the No.1 ancient bridge of Quanjiao, was a rebuilt stone bridge in 1057 and restored many times in the Ming Dynasty.
The long Jiyu Bridge spans the Xianghe River. In ancient time, successful candidates in the imperial examination at the county level would go from this bridge to Yongjin Bridge, wearing flowers, and then pay homage to their teachers and Confucius.
Yongjin Bridge, a stone arch bridge with three apertures, was built in the Ming Dynasty by Jin Guangchen, a rich local personage, and Kong Shangze, the then county mayor. The bridge has been repaired several times in history.
Next to it is Honglan Bridge built in 1096 in the Northern Song Dynasty with the fund donated by Gao Zhimi and was rebuilt in 1931. Now it remains as a key part of the major thoroughfare in the county.
After passing Jiyu Bridge, an ancient building like a gate tower comes into view. It was built in 1572 in the Ming Dynasty and named Zunjingge to promote respect to Confucianism. It had been renovated several times in history. After the latest renovation in the Qing Dynasty, it was renamed Kuiguanglou to highlight the importance people attach to education.
Kuiguanglou is the birthplace of the local literature style. It was used as a lecture room by Wang Yangming in the Ming Dynasty and a study by Wu Jingzi who wrote here the famous lines: life is changeable in prosperity and declines; never deceive the young when they are poor now...
The old street in Yuanjiawan is the place where lived several famed families of Confucian scholars, including ancestors of Wu Jingzi. Today, the street is lined up with sugar mills, tailors' shops, bamboo ware shops, blacksmiths, and tofu shops... some people might prefer to stay there for their whole life amid ancient crafts and historical articles.
來源｜安徽畫報
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