Montrose 1990: The facts
Bottles produced N/A
Composition 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc
Yield 38hl/ha
Alcohol 13%
Release price N/A
Price today £485 at Fine + Rare
玫瑰山莊1990
數據
瓶裝量：未知
成分：64％赤霞珠，32％梅洛，4％品麗珠
產量：38hl / ha
酒精度：13％
發行價：未知
現價：485英鎊
A legend because…
Montrose was long renowned for its impressive but austere and tannic wines that needed years of cellaring. Then in 1989 and 1990 it produced a pair of wines that established it as the finest property in St-Estèphe, with Cos d’Estournel its closest rival.
Connoisseurs still discuss the relative merits of the two vintages, though the consensus is that the 1990 is, marginally, the finer of the two.
緣起……
玫瑰山莊因其令人印象深刻的質樸多單寧酸葡萄酒而久負盛名，其酒需要多年的窖藏。 在1989年和1990年，酒莊推出葡萄酒雙雄，確立了它在聖埃斯泰夫產區最佳葡萄酒莊的地位，它最接近的競爭對手是愛士圖爾酒莊。
儘管已經形成1990年份是兩者中較好的共識，鑑賞家仍然在爭論這兩個年份的相對優點。
Looking back
Jean-Louis Charmolüe, whose ancestors had bought the estate in 1896, was the owner in 1990, and although he always maintained the very traditional style of Montrose, he was aware that wines of such severity were becoming less acceptable to a new generation of Bordeaux drinkers. He planted more Merlot, reducing the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon.
回顧
讓·路易·夏木樂的祖先於1896年買下這個酒莊，1990年，他成了酒莊所有者，雖然他一直保持著玫瑰山莊傳統的釀酒風格，但是他意識到這樣粗獷的葡萄酒年輕一代的波爾多飲酒者接受度越來越低。 他種植了更多梅洛，減少了赤霞珠的比例。
The vintage
The winter was mild and, after rain in April, May was very hot and dry. Flowering began well but was interrupted by poor weather that affected the set of the Cabernets. Extreme heat returned in July, leading to blocked ripening, August too was hot and dry, but there was some rain at the end of the month that relieved the parched vines and allowed the bunches to ripen fully. The harvest began in mid- September and continued until 3 October, giving ripe Merlots and concentrated Cabernets.
年份
冬天溫和，經過四月份的降雨，五月非常炎熱乾燥。 花期開端良好，但惡劣的天氣影響了一批赤霞珠。 7月份又回到極端炎熱天氣，妨礙了葡萄成熟，8月也是炎熱乾燥的，但是月底下了點雨，使得旱情緩解，促使葡萄完全成熟。 收穫從9月中旬開始，一直持續到10月3日，採獲了成熟的梅洛和濃縮的赤霞珠。
The terroir
With its deep gravel soils, Montrose differs little in its terroir from Château Latour, its riverside counterpart in Pauillac. The vineyards, about 68ha in 1990, are in a single block about 800m from the Gironde, and their average age was about 40 years. But the gravel is no more than 2m deep – ample for excellent drainage, but no match for the profundity of Latour’s soils. Beneath the gravel is a layer of limestone and clay. Like other top châteaux in St-Estèphe, Montrose also has parcels with a high clay content, which may explain the hefty tannins of the wine, and also why more Merlot, always at home on clay, was planted in the 1980s. Charmolüe told me early in 1990 that he planned to bunch-thin the Merlot that year to ensure it would not weaken the wine’s structure.
風土
玫瑰山莊的深礫石土壤與其波雅克村（Pauillac）的河畔鄰居拉圖爾莊園（ChâteauLatour）的風土差別不大。 1990年，酒莊68公頃的葡萄園在吉倫特省約800米海拔的的一個單獨區塊，葡萄藤平均樹齡約為40年。 碎石的深度不超過2米，排水功能足夠好，但比不上拉圖莊的土壤深度。 礫石下面是一層石灰石和粘土。 像聖埃斯泰夫的其他頂級酒莊一樣，玫瑰山莊也擁有高粘土含量的葡萄園，這可以解釋葡萄酒中的強壯單寧，以及為什麼在20世紀80年代種植了更多的梅洛。 夏木樂早在1990年就告訴我說，他計劃在當年削減梅洛，以確保它不會削弱葡萄酒的結構。
The wine
The grapes were fermented in wooden vats with frequent pumpovers, and the malolactic fermentation also took place in those vats. The wine was aged for 18 months in at least 50% new oak, racked regularly, and after a light egg-white fining, it was bottled unfiltered.
葡萄酒
葡萄在木桶中發酵，頻繁淋皮，蘋果乳酸發酵也在大桶中進行。 葡萄酒在新桶至少佔比50％的橡木桶中陳釀18個月，定期倒罐，經過輕微的蛋清澄清後，未經過濾即裝瓶。
The reaction
Tasting the wine in November 2016, Decanter’s Jane Anson noted: ‘Tertiary aromas and flavours are coming to the fore, but confidently so. There is still a sense of freshness to the black fruits, and this wine has a way to go – the pleasures of a ripe Bordeaux vintage are still very much intact.’
反響
《品醇客》的Jane Anson在2016年11月品嚐了這款酒，他指出：“毫無疑問，第三紀的芳香和風味已經面世。有一種黑色果的清新，這款葡萄酒還會演進，其成熟的波爾多年份酒的基因還很完整。
譯自——
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