成為衝浪手
surfer
想要成為一名貨真價實的衝浪手，並非一朝一夕，跟任何運動一樣，衝浪這項運動需要非常刻苦地練習，今天講的就是提高自身衝浪技術的方法，希望能給初學者一點幫助。
很多初學者認為，只要能在衝浪板上站起來就算是會衝浪了，這真是就好像人家問你會不會打籃球，你說我會投籃一樣，完全是不同的。
1.成為一個滑板滑手
學習滑手們的心態，擁有反覆嘗試同一個動作並努力成功的決心，這會對你學習衝浪的騰空動作非常有幫助。對於轉向也會有幫助，但更多需要你花時間去學習，讀懂海浪，並學會在不同的浪上做出相應的動作。
1. Be a skater
Getting a skating mindset and practising certain moves over and over again is a good way to learn airs. For turns, it’s still repetition, but it’s more about going out and learning how to read waves and adapt to them.
2.感受體會你的轉向動作
不用過份仔細的分析你的動作，衝浪運動中有很多東西是教練無法教給你的，有時更多是你自己的感覺和體會。嘗試不同的海浪，並努力每天都去衝浪。
2. Feel the turn
Don’t analyse manoeuvres too closely. There’s so many things in surfing that can’t be taught. It’s all just feeling. It’s riding every different kind of wave and surfing every day.
3.找到一個推動你前進的人
嘗試去與比自己水平高的人一起衝浪，這跟從事其他運動一樣，會幫助你提升。但別讓他人的高超技術擊敗你的內心，讓你覺得遙不可及。
3. Find a pusher
Surf with people better than you. This relates to anything. It’ll always help you progress. But, don’t let it defeat you and make you bummed out.
4.清楚認識自己，並加以鞭策
至少每月看一次自己衝浪的視頻。這是一個很好學習進步的方式。你可以將你的動作跟你最喜歡的衝浪手比較，看到你與他們的差距，並找出你進步的空間。很多衝浪人都會有這樣的體會，當你衝浪的時候，你感覺你表現太出色了killed it !但在視頻上你卻發現你其實很一般。有時不是你用力越大越好，而是你怎麼用力，用在哪裡，才能讓你的動作好看！記住作對時的感受，反覆練習吧！
4. Humiliate yourself
As confronting as it can be, watch footage of yourself at least once a month. I feel that this has to be the best way to learn. You can compare it to your favourite surfers, see what they have that you’re lacking, see where you can improve. Even for me, now, I’ll go and have a surf and feel like I was ripping, then I’m bummed out on the footage. Or I’ll think I’m having a shocker and the footage makes it look good. Think about what looked good, how it felt and how to do that again.
5. 加入一個衝浪俱樂部！
這不一定適用每個人，有些人天生好鬥，喜歡有壓力的競爭，這對你的技術提高非常有益，因為你會在自由衝浪時努力做一些平時不會做的動作，從然進步。當然也有很多人不喜歡競技性衝浪，更多在乎靈魂衝浪或者喜歡這種很放鬆的生活方式。但無疑，如果你喜歡在壓力下前進，你一定會在衝浪運動上有所造詣！
5. Join a club
This doesn’t work for everyone. If you’re naturally competitive and like the pressure, it helps your surfing a lot because you’ll try crazier stuff and put yourself in positions that you wouldn’t put yourself in when freesurfing. There’s also people who don’t like competing and crack under pressure. But, if you like the pressure, you’re guaranteed to push your surfing to another level.
6.成為一個合群的人
去經常和那些pro一起衝浪，別擔心你搶不到浪，這種時候你更多需要去學習他們的心態，他們的技術，他們的一切，細心觀察！我們每個人可能都會喜歡看那些pro在電影裡超乎常人的表現，但與他們一起衝浪會讓你發現在同樣的浪況下，他們可能也許就表現的一般，也會摔，也會做出錯誤的動作選擇，他們也是人，也會犯錯誤。
6. Be a groupie
Freesurf near WT or prime events whenever you can so you can watch pros in the water. Growing up, I loved any chance I had to be around those guys or to watch a contest. Back then, I wasn’t thinking so much about learning, it was more about the experience of seeing those guys. But, looking back now, there’s guys who you’d watch in movies then see in real life and you realise there’s a difference because all the bad stuff gets chopped out in a movie. It definitely helps your confidence, knowing that. I remember when I was a grom I watched Kelly Slater in Black and White relentlessly with my brothers and I was convinced that Kelly didn’t fall off.
7.不要驕傲
這可能不容易，衝浪世界也會不公平，往往拿到大牌贊助的選手並非真正的高手，但有了成就，就不應自滿。時常向其他浪人請教他們是怎麼成功完成動作的，會對你很有幫助。你可能看過很多影片，很懂得分析，但並不代表你有那個能力去完成動作。多請教別人，抱著學習的心態衝浪你會進步更快！
7. Don’t be proud
It ain’t easy but it helps if you ask better surfers how they nail their tricks and what techniques they use. That is, if you have the right relationship with that person. If I surf with someone and get along with them I’ll happily ask how to do things. Sometimes, I get asked myself and I’m more than happy to share what I know.
8.不要帶著情緒衝浪
學會放鬆，不要帶著情緒衝浪，當你有想法一定要完成什麼動作，或者一定要怎樣的時候，會毀了你自由衝浪的時間。放鬆，因為很多酷的動作都會是在不經意間完成的。
8. No crazy eyes
Don’t try and get in the zone in the water. I feel that it never helps when you free surf. When you go freesurfing you need to take it as a new experience and not put pressure on it. The coolest stuff happens when you’re having fun. Go out with an open attitude. If you’re having a good time and not worrying about falling off, it reflects in the way your session goes. If you paddle out going, “I’ve gotta do the sickest air,” you tend to get pissed off and never achieve it.
9.一步一個腳印
很多人都很急於求成，但每個高手都是花了很久才練就的一身好功夫，不要覺得電影裡看到的那些幾秒動作很光鮮而忘記了拍攝時可能剪掉了那800次的失敗嘗試。一步一個腳印，腳踏實地進步吧！
9. Bubba steps
Know that sometimes less is more. The hardest thing for someone learning is the fact that they wanna do things the way they see them straight away, instead of taking the baby steps that the guy who can do it has taken over the years. When you see the best guys in movies do something, you forget they’ve chopped out the 800 that weren’t made or didn’t look as cool. You can’t worry about how it looks, you need to realise there’s steps to take before you get to that point. When you’re learning finners, you won’t do one like Reynolds where you hit the lip vertically and go inverted. You’ve gotta start doing little horizontal slides. You’ve gotta start basic.
10. 讀懂你的衝浪板
非常重要，學會找到最適合自己的板。進步其實很多是與享受衝浪緊密連接的，不要太固執的在2ft膝蓋高無力的浪上還要選擇用高表現力的pro板，此時一個魚板或者厚一些的板可以給你提供更多的速度，甚至讓你做出騰空動作。你不能改變浪況，你只能適應它，而每種浪況都會有適合它的板。板的設計有很多細節，板型，板底弧度，鰭的大小，等等。不要太一根筋，建議你多換換板，這樣會讓你更快的讀懂衝浪板！
10. Know your surfboards
Learn to pick boards that suit conditions. Progressing has a lot to do with having fun. It’s silly to ride a high-performance shortboard when it’s two-foot and weak, when you could be on a fish and getting all sorts of speed to do airs. You can’t force a situation. There’s a board for every condition. There’s so many options with shapes, rockers, fins, fin systems. It’s endless. If you’re bored with something, try something different.
11.知道你的心情
衝浪是一個與心情緊密聯繫的運動。與音樂相通。性格平和舒緩的人更喜歡長板的飄逸優雅，而性格激進跳動的人更喜歡短板的速度和水花。每個人的心情都會變化，例如你早上起來喝了咖啡，激動的想跳進水裡就開始做大尺度的動作，也許你真的會去做，而且會成功，至少你會去嘗試。但有時你的心情舒緩，更適合划水出去簡單的衝幾道浪即可。
11. Know your mood
Your surf can be dictated by your mood. If you’re super amped-up on coffee and wanna go out and do a million of the sickest turns or biggest airs, you’re gonna go and try it. Not to say you’re gonna do it, but you’ll at least have the energy to try. There’s also times when you just wanna cruise and trim. The mood’s set before you paddle out.、
12.相信自己，你可以做任何動作！
把某個難度動作看做是可以完成的，因為每個動作都有適合它的浪況。有些你覺得你一輩子都不可能實現的動作，結果某一天的浪況非常適合它，你沒準就成功了! 然後你多次嘗試，發現其實並不是遙不可及。重要的是學會讀懂海浪，知道什麼浪況適合實現什麼動作。
12. You can do anything
View a trick as achievable. Everything takes a certain type of wave. There’ll be things that you think are unachievable until one day you surf a wave that’s perfect for that trick. Then you try it and go, wow, it is achievable. You get that little bit of inspiration and then you know what to go for when those conditions are right. Say a rodeo is something you’d love to do. If you always surf fat waves, you’re never going to get the opportunity to try it, and you’re going to think it’s unachievable. It’s about knowing waves and knowing what to try in what conditions.
13.海浪是在變化的老師
如果你在一個沙灘浪點長大，那麼每年365天每天浪都會不一樣。但如果你成長在像黃金海岸或者海南的日月灣的點浪，那作為一個當地人，你絕對有優勢，因為海浪不會有太大變化。沙灘浪更難也更具挑戰，它也會教會你更多，教會你學會適應各種浪況。無論哪裡都會有長有短！
13. Waves are teachers
There’s something to learn from every wave. If you grow up on a beachbreak you’re gonna surf different conditions 365 days a year. But if you grow up somewhere like the Gold Coast with long point breaks, you definitely have an advantage of being a local and knowing the wave inside out. Beachbreaks are always a tough one, but they’re also a good thing because you learn to adapt to every different condition. There’s a positive to everything.
14.找一個瘋狂的夥伴
選擇一個會帶你去衝大浪的朋友，跟你同齡，激勵你去挑戰自我。有時他會激發出最好的你！
14. Get a crazy pal
Find a friend who you can push you in big waves. You definitely need someone to push you and if they’re around the same age, even better. It’s a huge motivation. This applies to all waves, really. If you’ve got someone that’s a similar ability and age, it always brings out the best in you.
15. 學會擁有一顆進取的心
進取心不是人人都有，但那些不怕失敗，不怕出洋相的人更容易學會更多。世界上會有很多人不願意失敗，但在失敗是成功的必經之路。例如Craig Anderson, 他不喜歡衝浪比賽，每逢比賽屢屢失敗，後執意成為freesurfer自由浪人，但不代表成為自由浪人就可以不用進取，craig 則更加專注努力完成更高的騰空，鑽進更大的浪管，在影片中表現出了讓世人驚訝的表現。所以進取心是無處不在的，只要你想成為一個好的浪手！
15. Get competitive
Recognise your competitiveness and play to your strength. Competitiveness isn’t something you can force. Everyone’s competitive to an extent, but it’s the people who aren’t afraid of losing or looking silly who learn the most. There’s always people who are too worried about how they’d look if they lost. Guys like Craig Anderson aren’t competitive in a contest sense, but they’re competitive in the sense that they wanna do a bigger air or get more barrels, and bring out the best movie part. You’ve gotta push your surfing when you’re filming those movie sections. Competitiveness is always there, just in different forms.
來源｜ 衝浪萬寧
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