06.22 “我真的不在乎”：梅拉尼娅的外套穿给谁看？

“我真的不在乎”：梅拉尼娅的外套穿给谁看？

Melania Trump, Agent of Coat Chaos

VANESSA FRIEDMAN

2018年6月22日

“I REALLY DON’T CARE, DO U?”

“我真的不在乎，你呢？”(I REALLY DON’T CARE, DO U?)

When the first lady, Melania Trump, on a surprise humanitarian visit to a children’s shelter in Texas, strode onto her airplane in an olive green Zara army jacket with those words scrawled in faux white graffiti on the back, it sent the watching world into what might be called, with some understatement, a meltdown.

在突然赴德克萨斯州一座儿童收容设施做人道主义访问时，第一夫人梅拉尼娅·特朗普(Melania Trump)是身穿一件橄榄绿色Zara军装外套走上飞机的，夹克背后用白色仿涂鸦风格潦草地写了这样一句话。保守地说，这令围观者可以说是陷入了一种崩溃状态。

“Insensitive,” “heartless” and “unthinking” were some of the words hurled through the digisphere about the choice.

“冷漠”、“无情”和“欠考虑”，数字媒体上纷纷这样评价她的着装选择。

“It’s a jacket,” her communications director, Stephanie Grisham, said in a statement to reporters. “There was no hidden message.”

“这只是一件外套，”她的通联主管史蒂芬妮·格里沙姆(Stephanie Grisham)在发给记者的声明中表示。“没有什么隐藏的信息。”

She’s right, of course. It wasn’t hidden. It was literally written on the first lady’s back. The question is: Who was the intended audience?

当然，她是对的。没有什么隐藏。都直接写在第一夫人的背上了。问题是：这是给谁看的呢？

The assumption implicit in the outrage is that the message was meant for those Mrs. Trump was meeting. But here’s the thing: The first lady has had some experience with the attention paid when she boards planes.

她引发的愤慨中暗含着这样的假设：这个信息是给那些要和特朗普夫人会面的人看的。但是有一件事值得注意：对于在登机时所受的关注，第一夫人已经有了一些经验。

She knows everyone is going to be watching. Remember back in August 2017 when she walked across the tarmac at Joint Base Andrews in sky-high Manolo stilettos during the Texas flood crisis? At that time, the shoes seemed to symbolize her enormous remove from the trauma, and she became the target of great opprobrium for the choice.She is well aware that nothing a first lady wears is “just” an anything, especially nothing she wears to a public event in which she remains silent, but knows she will be photographed — as her experience with the high heels to Texas would have taught her (and taught her advisers).

她知道所有人都在看。还记得2017年8月德克萨斯州洪水危机期间，她穿着莫罗(Manolo)细高跟鞋走过安德鲁斯联合基地(Joint Base Andrews)停机坪时的情形吗？当时那双鞋子似乎象征着她与那场灾难距离遥远，她也因为那个选择受到大量谴责。如今她清楚地知道，第一夫人穿的任何衣服都不“仅仅是”一件衣服而已，特别是她在不开口发言的公开活动中所穿的衣服，而且她知道，她会被镜头拍下来——这就是穿高跟鞋去德克萨斯的经历可能教会她的东西（而且可能也教会了她的顾问）。

梅拉尼娅今天前往德州看望儿童时穿的外套。

梅拉尼娅今天前往德州看望儿童时穿的外套。 CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTY IMAGES

To accept the idea she just threw the Zara jacket on in practically the same situation because — hey, it was close at hand and she was maybe a little bit cool (or something like that) is simply unbelievable.

在这样一个跟上次其实差不多的场合，她穿上这么一件Zara夹克，你要让我相信她只是随手拿了一件衣服，而且还说明她挺酷的（或是别的什么特质），那真是太不可思议了。

Especially because this time around Mrs. Trump chose to wear something from the mass market brand Zara — Zara! — instead of her usual Dolce & Gabbana or Ralph Lauren. This is a first lady, after all, who decided to wear a $1,380 Balmain plaid shirt during a White House gardening initiative. She is not a high/low dresser in public — or has never been since the election. She’s been all high seemingly all the time.

特别是因为，这次特朗普夫人选择了大众市场品牌Zara——Zara！——而不是她平时穿的杜嘉班纳(Dolce ＆ Gabbana)或者拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)。这毕竟是第一夫人，她在白宫的一次园艺倡导活动上选了1380美元的Balmain格子衬衫。她在公众场合的着装并不是价格时高时低——或者从选举以来就不是这样。她服装的价钱似乎一直很高。

So how else to interpret the Zara jacket, a style in line with the signature self-protective aesthetic she has developed since entering the White House, except as an indication Mrs. Trump was thinking about what people might read into the clothes she chose to wear to visit children left with, effectively, nothing?

所以还能怎么解读这件Zara夹克呢——它的风格延续了她进入白宫以来形成的标志性自我保护美学——只能说特朗普夫人肯定想到了，她在看望那些被抛下的孩子们时选择的服装会被人们进行解读，难道不是只有这种可能吗？

The jacket, after all, which is reportedly sold out and is not from the current season, retailed for $39. It may be the least expensive garment the first lady has worn while representing the administration.

毕竟，据报道，这件外套已经售罄，而且它不属于本季时装，零售价为39美元（合253元人民币）。这可能是第一夫人在代表政府时穿过的最便宜的服装。

And then there’s the fact that Mrs. Trump has never been one to shy away from coding pointed, not necessarily, popular communications into her wardrobe. She did, after all, wear a white trouser suit — the uniform of the Hillary Clinton-led opposition — to her husband’s first State of the Union address.

其次，事实上，特朗普夫人的衣橱里从来没有回避过着装规则通行的（不一定是必须的）服装沟通方式。毕竟，她在丈夫第一次发表国情咨文演讲时穿了白色裤套装——那是希拉里·克林顿(Hillary Clinton)领导下的反对派的制服。

All of which suggests there is very little chance she did not know what she was doing with that “I really don’t care” coat. (Zara declined to comment.)So who was the target of that not-so-hidden message? That the first lady had shed the jacket by the time she disembarked in Texas may indicate it was not, in fact, the families at the heart of the immigration issue. Besides, there are numerous alternative possibilities, when you start to think about it.

所有这些都表明，当她穿上这件写着“我真的不在乎”的外套时，她不太可能不知道自己在做什么（Zara拒绝发表评论）。那么这个没怎么隐藏的消息到底是给谁看的？第一夫人在德克萨斯州下机时脱掉了这件外套，这可能表明受众事实上不是那些处于移民问题核心的家庭。此外，如果你仔细想想，还有很多其他的可能性。

There was her husband’s interpretation, as expressed via his favorite communication method, Twitter.Or maybe the “I really don’t care” part was intended for critics of her husband’s policy. Maybe it was intended to tell everyone that she was not part of forming said policy, or not responsible for conveying everyone’s outrage about said policy.

她丈夫通过最喜欢的沟通方式Twitter做出了解释。又或者“我真的不在乎”这部分是为了批评她丈夫的政策。也许是为了告诉大家，她没有参与到上述政策中去，又或者是想说她没有责任传达每个人对上述政策的愤慨。

梅拉尼娅·特朗普离开马里兰的安德鲁斯空军基地。

梅拉尼娅·特朗普离开马里兰的安德鲁斯空军基地。 MANDEL NGAN/AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE — GETTY IMAGES

Maybe it was intended for her husband himself. (The “free Melania” folks will like this idea.)

也许它是给她丈夫本人看的（持“解放梅拉尼娅”观点的人会喜欢这个想法。）

Or maybe, just maybe, it was a message for those of us who like to read messages into her clothes. One that said, “I’m going to wear whatever I want and I don’t care what you think about it.” After all, she wore the jacket again deplaning later at Andrews — wore it unapologetically knowing all the hoo-ha it had caused, the confusion and umbrage, the distraction from what she said was her core message of compassion. Wore it as if to give direct proof to the words on her back. That would be kind of meta.

或者，也许，只是也许，这是给我们这些喜欢从她的服装中解读出信息的人发送的信息。意思是：“我要穿什么就穿什么，我不在乎你怎么想。”毕竟，后来她在安德鲁斯下机时又穿上了这件外套——明知道它造成了那么多的纷扰、困惑和不愉快，并且令人不去关注她说她想要表达的核心信息：同情——但她还是毫不在意地穿上了它。她穿着这件外套就好像在直接证明她背上的文字。这可能是一种自指。

Mrs. Trump often seems to be using her clothes as a sort of private diary, yet one that is parsed by millions who don’t have the rest of the text. Between intention and analysis an enormous gulf can exist. It’s a risky approach to her role.

特朗普夫人似乎经常把她的服装当作一种私人日记，然而这份日记却在被成千上百万人分析，他们无法读到这份日记其余的文本。意图和分析之间可能存在巨大的鸿沟。对她的角色来说，这是一种危险的方式。

And as interesting as the idea might be, this time it may have backfired.

这个想法虽然可能很有趣，但是这一次，它的效果可能适得其反。