English◆ ◆英語傳遞戲曲文化
1、不知道各位看官身邊是否有熱愛戲曲的外國友人？
2、不知道這些可愛的外國友人是否曾經向你請教過戲曲方面的知識？
3、而你，是否為此而苦惱過？
來，各位看官，快隨小的一同學習吧。傳承戲曲知識，就從今天做起！
Cap With a Soft Inner Lining 軟巾類
1、皇巾
又稱“帝王巾”；軟胎，樣式呈方形，前底後高，帽背插朝天翅一堆，帽身由皇緞製成，彩繡草龍、回紋等圖案。主要是為皇帝睡覺或染病時使用。
HUANG JIN(Emperor's Cap)
As we known as dijin（‘di’ means emperor）.It has a soft inner lining，a front section lower than the back section，and a pair of wings in the middle of the back.It is made of yellow satin and is embroidered with dragons.It is worn by an Emperor when he is in bed or becoming ill.
2、相巾
由緞料製成，樣式呈方形，前臉正中鑲有白玉帽正，帽背插朝天翅一對，高出帽頂。帽身彩繡龍，蟒及垂直紋。顏色有紫、紅、藍等。主要是為了達官顯貴及宰相穿便服時所戴，如《宇宙鋒》中的趙高、《八仙》中的曹國舅等。
XIANG JIN(Premier‘s Kerchief）
A kind of square cap with several raised lines and a hard inner lining.It is made of satin and embroidered with dragons，pythons or patterns of golden lines.It has a pair of wings attached to the back and a piece of white jade that decorates the middle of the front.It is worn by prime ministers,the nobility and high officials when they are in everyday dress.Such characters include Zhao Gao in The Sword(Yu Zhou Feng).
3、員外巾
有緞料製成，樣式呈斜方形，帽背有兩根軟翅，下垂繡花長飄帶。帽身彩繡草龍或“壽”字等圖案，顏色有紫、藍、古銅色等。主要為員外，鄉紳、富戶等人所戴，《鎖麟囊》中的薛父。
YUANWAI JIN(Squire Cap)
A kind of ladder—shaped square cap with a soft inner lining.It is made of satin and is generally embroidered with the Chinese character”壽“（longevity）.There are two soft wings and two ribbons embroidered with flowers attached to the back.The costume and Squire Cap worn by a character must be of the same colour and embroidered pattern.Yuanwajin is usually worn by rich men.
「由上至下依次為皇巾、相巾、員外巾」
4、文生巾
又稱“小生巾”“公子巾”。由緞料製成，帽盔呈半圓形，自帽頂至兩側有扇形硬邊，與左右如意頭硬邊相連接。帽背垂兩條飄帶，彩繡草花或“萬”字盤邊等圖案，使用時與人物服色相配合。主要為儒雅的公子和清秀、瀟灑的秀才、書生所戴。若兩根飄帶於左側打結，則表示遇難或正在趕路。
WENSHENG JIN(Civilian Kerchief)
Also known as Gongzijin（young urbane man’s cap）or XiaoShengJin（young man‘s cap），is one kind of cap with a soft inner lining.It is made of various colours and em- broidered with flowers，grass，or the Chinese character wan“萬”（literally“myriad of things”，a symbol of good luck）.It has a hard fan—like decoration on either side from which tassels dangle.Two ribbons are attached to the back.Sometimes the ribbons can be tied in front of the left ear in order to show the character is suffering misfortune or hurrying on his way.There are many colours of Wenshengjin and they must match therest of the costume.Wenshengjin is usually worn by young men of refinement or handsome young scholars.
5、武生巾
樣式同文生巾，唯獨帽頂正中插小火焰（俗名“軟火焰”）且不加飄帶，開打場時可摘去流蘇，使用時與人物服色相配合。主要為武生（含武小生）所扮演的角色所戴，如《拿登高》中的許世英。
WUSHENG JIN (Military Kerchief)
one kind of cap with soft lining,and is similar to the "civilian kerchief".the significant difference between the two is that wushengjin does not have ribbons attached .instead,a "'small flame"（a popular name for a bow made of red silk）is added to the center of the front.in acrobatic fighting performances，the tassels on either side must be removed.It is worn by wusheng（the male role skilled in martial arts）characters and wu xiaosheng.
6、學士巾
又稱“解元巾”。由緞料製成，樣式為前低後高，帽頂左右兩端各有挖角，帽背插一對如意形軟翅，分花、素兩種，使用時與人物服色相配合。主要為有知識、有計謀但無功名的文人所戴，如《謝瑤環》中的謝瑤環。
XUESHI JIN(scholar’s kerchief）
Also known as jieyuan jin.It is made of satin and embroidered with flowers，with the colour and patter used determined by the rest of the costume.The cap has a tilt，so that the front part sits lower than the back part.It has two Ruyi—shaped soft wings attached to the back.It is worn by renowned scholars.
「由上至下依次為文生巾、武生巾、學士巾」
7、方巾
由緞料製成，素面無繡，形似斜坡形屋頂。顏色有黑、藍、古銅色等，以此來區分人物的年齡和身份。主要為窮生、有功名的書生、品德高尚的賢士所戴，如《捉放曹》中的陳宮。
FANGJIN(Square Kerchief）
A square cap with a soft inner lining that looks like a sloping roof.Without any embroidery，it has a piece of white jade in the middle of the front.Different colours such as black，bule，or bronze，are used to distinguish the character‘s age and status.There are two types:the higher status cap and the lower status cap.Since actors of chou representing scholars always wear the ai fangjin，this type of chou is thus named Fangjin Chou.Gao Fangjin is for Qiongsheng role，scholars who have passed county examinations or men of intelligence and integrity.Officials also wear Gao Fangjin once they have left office.
8、棒槌巾
樣式同皇巾，上小下大，前低後高。帽身彩繡花卉、蝴蝶等圖案，帽背插一對桃葉形小翅。顏色有綠、白、黃等，使用時需與人物服色相配合。主要為衙內，惡少以及紈絝子弟所戴，如《野豬林》中的高衙內。
BANGCHUI JIN(Wooden Club Kerchief）
One kind of cap with a soft inner lining，made of satin and embroidered with flowers.It is worn by "young masters"or the pampered,carefree offspring of high officials.With the upper section than the lower section，the cap looks like a wooden club，hence the name.At the back of the cap，a pair of small wings attached to either side of the cap flaps up and down when walking，matching the flippant behaviour of the character.
9、老人巾
樣式同學士巾，前臉正中鑲玉帽正，巾背後有兜和飄帶，帽身彩繡雲朵等圖案。顏色有紫、黑、古銅等三種。主要用於彬彬有禮的長者或慈祥的神仙，如《盜仙草》之南極仙翁。
LAOREN JIN(elderly kerchief）
It is so named because it is worn by the elderly.It is made of satin with a soft inner lining and is without embroidery.It has a hood at the back and a jade"cap adjuster"to the front.Purple,black and bronze are three colours most commonly seen.
「由上至下，依次為方巾、棒槌巾、老人巾」
10、八卦巾
樣式同高方巾。由緞料製成，前臉正中鑲玉帽正，帽身彩繡八卦圖和太極圖，巾背懸垂兩條平金繡飄帶，顏色有黑、紫兩種。主要為道家、軍師所戴，如《群英會》中的諸葛亮。
BAGUA JIN(Eight-Diagram Kerchief)
It is one kind of cap with a soft inner lining,embroidered with eight diagrams and Taijin symbols.The crown is flat and the lower part is square.There is a piece of jade,a"cap adjuster",and two embroidered ribbons attached to the back.The two colours used are black or purple.It is mostly worn by characters well-versed in Taoism.
11、橋樑巾
又稱“張生巾”，因樣式呈橋樑而得名，由軟緞製成，帽身彩繡如意頭、花卉等圖案，巾背懸垂兩條長飄帶，使用時與人物服色相配合。主要用於較為文雅的年輕書生，如《瀟湘夜雨》中的崔通。
QIAOLIANG JIN(Brige Kerchief)
It is named because its crown is in the shape of a brige.It is made of satin or silk with a soft inner lining,and embroidered with flower patterns.Two ribbons are attrached to the back.Wearing the kerchief suggests that the character is handsome and scholarly.Generally,its colour and pattern are determined by the costume.
12、道巾
又稱“道士巾”。樣式同八卦巾，由緞料製成、帽身彩繡陰陽魚和豎條圖案，顏色有黑、紫兩種。主要為道士、神仙及足智多謀的軍師所戴，如《群英會》中的龐統，《八仙過海》中的呂洞賓。
DAOSHI JIN(Taoist Kerchief)
One kind of cap with a soft inner lining,similiar in design to the bagua jin(eight-diagram kerchief).The cap is black or purple and embroidered with the pattern of eight diagrams It is worn by Taoist priests and immortals.
文獻參考：《中英文對照——京劇服飾術語》
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