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这是 Economist Espresso 栏目的第42篇精选文章：

Soy delicious: ramen

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Soy delicious: ramen

If you want to sup at Osamu Tomita’s shop for lunch, punters suggest you get in line at 7am. Tomita, his celebrated ramen joint in Matsudo, opened more than a decade ago, and customers still patiently join long queues hoping to taste its famed chuka soba or tokusei tsukesoba.

For foodies unable to make the pilgrimage, “Ramen Heads”, a documentaryreleased in Japan in January and in America yesterday, reveals the meticulous craft behind each dish. The secret to a rich soup is combining three different broths, each taking at least eight hours to make. Achieving chewy but slipperynoodles requires close attention to the temperature of the water.

The film mixes in discussion of the roots of Japan’s de facto national dish (it has separate museums dedicated to ramen, instant ramen and cup noodles). Though probably brought over by 19th-century Chinese tradesmen, masters such as Mr Tomita have souped it up.

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