黄道婆流落崖州30年,如何逆袭?

吱呀吱呀~,这声音你听过吗?

那是织布机的声音。


早些年,走过上海的大街小巷,你也许还能看到满脸皱纹的老奶奶,坐在织布机前纺着经线,手中的梭子在线中来回游走。


黄道婆流落崖州30年,如何逆袭?

吱呀吱呀~

从黄道婆回乡传授先进的纺织技术,到松江府成为全国最大的棉纺织中心,“衣被天下”,再到如今祖传手艺后继者寥寥,世界已经大不同了。

Huang Daopo was a respected innovator of cotton textile technologies in Shanghai about 700 years ago in Yuan dynasty. She was said to be born at Wunijing— today's Hujing Town, Xuhui district of Shanghai—and was ill-treated as a child bride. To seek changes she left home and went to Yazhou—today's Sanya in Hainan Province. She stayed there for 30 years and learned all about the advanced local technologies of cotton textile.

你听说过黄道婆吗?

她是宋末元初著名的棉纺织家、技术改革家。在清代的时候,被尊为布业的始祖。

相传大约七百年前,出生于松江乌泥泾(今上海徐汇区华泾镇)的黄道婆,因家境贫穷,沦为童养媳。因不堪忍受公婆虐待,流落至崖州(今海南省三亚市)三十多年。

黄道婆流落崖州30年,如何逆袭?

这一听是个悲伤的故事,

但黄道婆却给了自己一个happy ending。

崖州是黎族人的居住地,生活在那里的黎族人种植棉花。黄道婆在崖州期间,学会了运用制棉工具、织崖州被的方法。

Then she came back to her hometown and taught villagers the skills she learned from Hainan. She introduced new machines and improved tools and skills to weave cotton. With her efforts, the cotton textile industry in Songjiang thrived, and the Shanghai area became the cotton processing center in China.

黄道婆流落崖州30年,如何逆袭?

元代元贞年间(1295—1296),她回到家乡,在松江府以东的乌泥泾镇,教人制棉,传授和推广轧棉机、弹棉弓、纺车、织机等工具,以及“错纱配色,综线挈花”等织造技术。

在她的努力下,乌泥泾和松江一带人民迅速掌握了先进的织造技术。当时的太仓、上海等县都加以仿效。棉纺织品色泽繁多,呈现出空前的盛况。在她去世后,松江府成为全国最大的棉纺织中心,一直持续到清代中叶。

黄道婆由于传授先进的纺织技术以及推广先进的纺织工具,而受到百姓的敬仰。她死后,乡民为她举行了公葬,建冢立碑、修造祠堂、供奉塑像。

Because of her contributions to the cotton textile industry, she was highly respected by the local people. After she died, the locals built a temple and made a statue to remember her.


黄道婆流落崖州30年,如何逆袭?

黄道婆墓 The tomb of Huang Daopo

黄道婆的纺织技艺流传至今,有乌泥泾手工棉纺织技艺。

它是上海徐汇区的地方传统手工技,首批国家级非物质文化遗产。然而,现在这项传统的手工棉纺织技艺面临着失传的危险。

The Wunijing manual cotton textile technology in Xuhui district of Shanghai is said to pass down from Huang Daopo. The technology was included on the list of China's National Intangible Culture Heritage.

乌泥泾手工棉纺织成品 A product made with this technology

虽然现在人工织布已经不多,但一件衣服,从播种棉花,到织布、印染,制作成衣,没有这千百年的不断学习改进,绝不会像今天这么容易。

想了解衣服背后的故事吗,

到上海徐汇区的黄道婆纪念馆!

黄道婆流落崖州30年,如何逆袭?

黄道婆纪念馆 Huang Daopo Memorial Hall

To carry on the technology, the Huang Daopo Memorial Hall was built and opened to the public in 2003, for citizens to learn about Huang Daopo's contributions and experience the process of making cotton products like scarf and cloth bag.

从播种棉花,到收割、脱壳、去籽,用古老的纺纱技艺纺线、染色、织布,再把纯天然的棉布做成植物染的方巾、围巾,或者在布面基底上刺绣、拼色,做成一款私人定制的抱枕、茶席、杯垫、包包……整个脉络都可以亲眼看到、亲手体验。

黄道婆流落崖州30年,如何逆袭?

小伙伴还能到纪念馆旁的黄道婆墓以及上海植物园内的黄母祠,了解黄大妈传奇的经历以及为上海纺织业所作的贡献。

Citizens can also visit the tomb and the temple of Huang Daopo to get a better idea of Huang's contribution and the development of cotton textile technologies in Shanghai.

黄道婆纪念馆、黄道婆墓和黄母祠等共同构成了上海黄道婆文化史迹。宋末元初黄道婆漂泊海南、归乡后传播棉纺织技术的动人故事,凝结着海丝沿线物资、人员、技术交流互动的历史记忆。

Source: WeChat(丝路云帆)


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