冲浪故事|一封给大海的情书

今天的故事是生命与大海的故事,他们饱受病痛的折磨,却从没有放弃希望,甚至在海浪中找到了治愈的方法。给大海写一封情书,让她知道我的心因为每一次的浪潮涌动而雀跃。目前,Surfing Australia正和美国的Soldier On 进行合作,用冲浪来治疗那些有战后创伤的退伍老兵,效果十分显著。

感人短片《The Coast》(心与海)是身患绝症的Hayden Peters献给大海的一封情书,以告白的方式表达对大海伟大的崇敬之情以及对自己灵魂的释放的宣泄。

冲浪故事|一封给大海的情书

在被查出可能身患一种基因绝症之后,Hayden Peters毅然而然放弃自己的城市生活,跳入大海的怀抱,拿起他最爱的冲浪板过上了渔夫般的生活,每年与大海朝夕相伴。在海岸线的生活带给Hayden一种全新的体验,也让Hayden对生活重新燃起希望。

This is Surfing Australia and Soldier On's official partnership puts veterans into a unique surfing and rehabilitation experience through the Soldier On Surf Therapy Program.

这是Surfing Australia(澳大利亚最大的冲浪管理中心)和Soldier On是官方合作伙伴关系,通过Soldier On Surf Therapy计划为退伍军人提供独特的冲浪和康复体验。

冲浪故事|一封给大海的情书

Physical exercise and sports recovery have been proven to improve mental health and has been demonstrated with great success for veterans who participate in surf therapy programs in the USA.Deputy CEO of Soldier On, Tony Fraser is thrilled to see the program and the official partnership with Surfing Australia come to fruition.

体育锻炼和运动恢复已经被证明可以改善心理健康,并且已经证明在参加美国冲浪治疗项目的退伍军人中取得了巨大的成功。Soldier On的副首席执行官托尼·弗雷泽很高兴看到该计划以及与冲浪澳大利亚的官方合作关系取得成果。

冲浪故事|一封给大海的情书

“The opportunity we have now to get the Surf Therapy Program up and off the ground and out to veterans across the country is just brilliant and the feedback we have received from the twenty or so veterans that participated in the Soldier On Surf Day earlier this year was fantastic.”

“我们现在有机会将冲浪疗法计划提升到全国各地的退伍军人计划,这对今年早些时候参加冲浪士兵的二十多位退伍军人的反馈非常好。太棒了。“

冲浪故事|一封给大海的情书

Veteran Peter Parton has used surfing as therapy since retiring from the service and spoke about the great benefits of surfing to returned service men and women.“I have struggled with some depression with my PTSD and surfing has definitely been that thing I can look forward to. If I am having a bad time I can go out and have a wave and just sit there and just be in the moment so I think the program is a great initiative."

退伍军人彼得·帕顿(Peter Parton)从退役之后开始使用冲浪作为治疗方法,并谈到了冲浪对退役军人的巨大好处。“我的创伤后应激障碍(PTSD)已经让我感到沮丧,冲浪肯定是我期待的事情。如果我度过了一个不愉快的时光,我可以出去玩一下,只是坐在那里,就在那一刻,所以我觉得这个计划是一项伟大的举措。“


来源|冲浪万宁


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