Beauty and the bloke: why more men are wearing makeup
美妆与硬汉:为什么化妆的男人越来越多了
In 2017 barely concealed sniggers greeted the reveal that French president Emmanuel Macron spent€26, 000 (E22, 000) on makeup in his first three months in office. And in December, the Washington Post hinted that Donald Trump used Bronx Color concealer, which was gleefully reported elsewhere.
2017年, 法国总统艾玛纽埃尔.马克龙上任三个月就花了2.6万欧元(2.2万英謗)化妆费。这一事件披露后，迎面而来的是外界毫不掩饰的嘲笑。也就在去年的十二月，华盛顿邮报暗示特朗普用的是美妆品牌BronxColor的遮瑕膏，媒体激动兴奋地到处报道。
In a vlog entitled Is it OK for guys to wear makeup? beauty blogger Jake Jamie contextualises the rise of male makeup with toxic masculinity and mental health issues, stemming from the strong and silent" archetype. Makeup,"by contrast he says," enables me to walk down the street with my head held high feeling like the very best version of myself." It feels like a statement of generational rebellion, as much as a body positive sales pitch. The message is that men's makeup is a route to happiness, confidence and self actualisation.
在一则名为《男人可以化妆吗?》的vlog (视频博客)中，美妆博主杰克.杰米将男性化妆的兴起置于其大环境中对“ 男人味”的畸形追求和男性面临的心理健康问题，而这些都源于一个认知:男性这一形象应当是“坚强而沉默”的。相反地他认为:“化妆，能让我昂首挺胸地走在大街上，感觉当下的自己就是最好的样子。”这句话就像是一代人的反抗宣言，也像是一条“身体自爱运动”的宣传口号。它传递的信息是:男性可以通过化妆来获得快乐和自信，并且完成自我实现。
But, interestingly, although men are happier to buy makeup, they don't want to seem like they're wearing it. For all this talk about confidence, the clandestine element of men's makeup is still significant. As is women's validation around its use.
不过有趣的是，尽管男性比以前更愿意购买化妆品了，他们并不想被人看出来他们化了妆。尽管说了这么多有关自信的话，“男性化妆”这一议题下那些(由于不被认可而) 秘密进行的部分依旧值得重视。女性(对男性使用化妆品)的认可也同样重要。
“Above everything, | think that it will be women who contribute the most to its normalisation,says Alex Dalley, who launched male beauty company MMUK in 2011.“There are so many women out there who don't mind their boyfriends or husbands wearing a touch of concealer or foundation, as long as it's discreet. If women continue to really get on board with this, men over 30 in particular will be more encouraged to experiment with these types of products."
在2011年创立了MMUK男性化妆品公司的亚历克斯.达利表示:“ 我认为最重要的是，在将男性化妆正常化的过程中，女性会起到最关键的作用。很多女性都不介意自己的男朋友或者丈夫涂-点遮瑕或是粉底，只要不明显。如果女性继续切实地参与其中，男性，尤其是那些30岁以上的男性，会更有信心去尝试这些美妆产品。
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