大家期待的解析品酒詞又來啦，今天我們一起來看看葡萄酒裡出現的蜂蠟，小茴香，青椒和奶油的風味是怎麼來的。正在學習WSET三級和四級的同學，不妨結合英文原文，學習怎麼在考試中運用這些品酒詞。
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插圖繪製：Kevin Pruitt
蜂蠟 BEEWAX
蜂蠟是工蜂的分泌物，用於建造蜂巢。蜂蠟中含有易燃性的化學物質，因此在燃燒蜂蠟時我們會聞到樹脂和蜂蜜的芬芳。
部分老年份白葡萄酒乙酸乙酯含量較高，會出現類似於蜂蠟的風味。乙酸乙酯來自於酵母酒精發酵以及陳年過程。
來自阿爾薩斯2015年Jean Biecher的白比諾便帶有蜂蠟和烤蘋果的風味。
在意大利北部阿爾託阿迪傑產區（Alto Adige）的2014 FranzHaas “Lepus”白比諾中，蜂蠟，鹹香香料，柑橘和綠色水果的風味完美地融於一體。
一些老年份的塞美蓉—尤其是產自澳大利亞獵人谷—也會出現蜂蠟風味。來自獵人谷2007年的Mount Pleasant “Elizabeth Cellar AgedSémillon”便帶有堅果和蜂蠟風味。
陳放了一段時間的德國雷司令也會出現蜂蠟風味。2014年的Thörle“Kalkstein Saulheimer”便帶有迷人的蜂蠟和白花芬芳。
延伸閱讀：
雷司令葡萄 — 氣候、釀造過程的影響和主要產區
蜂蠟那蠟質和樹脂的質感是某些酒特有的口感：經歷了酒泥陳年或蘋果酸-乳酸發酵的霞多麗，塞美蓉或是白詩南都會有這種柔和以及飽滿的口感。
來自2014年南非奧弗貝格（Overberg）產區的Lismore霞多麗便有濃郁的酒泥風味，並散發出蜂蜜和刺槐的芳香。
經歷了酒泥陳年的香檳也會帶有蜂蠟，麵包，餅乾，吐司和黃油麵包的香氣。
典型葡萄酒：
Barnaut, Blanc de Noirs Brut Grand Cru,Champagne NV
Beeswax is a substance secreted by worker bees in the hive, where it’s used to build the honeycomb structure. Its chemical composition means it can be burnt in candles, when it can produce a resinous and honey-like aroma.
In older white wines, Beeswax aromas can be evoked by the prominence of ethyl acetates, which might be created by yeast during fermentation, or from the breakdown of other components during bottle ageing.
This can apply to some Pinot Blanc wines, such as Jean Biecher, Pinot Blanc 2015 from Alsace, which has a nose of beeswax mingled with baked apple.
Or Franz Haas, Lepus Pinot Bianco 2014, from northern Italy’s Alto Adige region, where beeswax notes help to marry savoury herbs with citrus and green fruit characteristics.
Certain bottle-aged Sémillon wines, particularly from Hunter Valley in Australia, might gain a beeswax character, too. For example Mount Pleasant, Elizabeth Cellar Aged Sémillon, Hunter Valley2007, ‘picks up nutty, beeswax notes’.
Beeswax can also be common in the aroma profile of German Rieslings which have had some time to develop. Such asThörle’s Kalkstein Saulheimer 2014, which has a nose of ‘attractive beeswax and white flowers’.
Texturally, the waxy or resinous element tobeeswax can make it a useful descriptor for the mouthfeel of some wines. This could include Chardonnay, Sémillon or Chenin Blanc wines that have received asmoother, more rounded mouthfeel from lees-ageing or malolactic fermentation.
For example, Lismore, Chardonnay 2014 fromthe South Africa’s Overberg region was made in a ‘lees-rich’ style, whichelicits ‘beeswax and acacia tones’.
It can also be detected in someparticularly leesy Champagnes, where beeswax can give definition to autolyticnotes like bread, biscuit, toast and brioche.
SEE: Barnaut, Blanc de Noirs Brut GrandCru, Champagne NV
小茴香 CUMIN
小茴香被廣泛用於中東和印第安料理當中。人們會用小茴香種子或是粉末作為調料。小茴香屬於歐芹家族，人們一般將其種子曬乾後才使用。
小茴香帶有柔和的泥土，木質和一點苦味。在品酒詞中，小茴香和黑胡椒，小豆蔻，肉豆蔻以及茴香都屬於香料香氣。
我們在某些
橙酒（orange wine）中能找到小茴香的香氣，長時間的果皮浸漬還會帶來泥土以及苦香料的香氣。延伸閱讀：
解密“橙酒（Orange Wine）”：皇帝的新衣，還是葡萄酒世界的新色彩？
來自瑞士瓦萊（Valais）產區2010年的Albert Mathier et Fils “Amphore Assemblage”便帶有小茴香的芬芳，同時在味蕾上展現出“小茴香，茶葉以及風乾雪茄葉”的風味。
某些產自涼爽氣候的高品質黑比諾也會隨著陳年發展出柔和的泥土以及香料（像小茴香）風味。
Peter Michael酒莊 2013年的“Le CapriceEstate”黑比諾產自於索諾瑪郡的Fort Ross-Seaview AVA。這款酒被William Kelley稱讚道：“濃郁多汁又十分優雅的黑比諾，帶有迷人的玫瑰花瓣，丁香，小茴香和黑色水果風味。”
某些酒體飽滿的紅葡萄酒在經歷過橡木桶陳年後也會出現類似於小茴香的香料風味。
位於瑪格麗特河谷Ringbolt酒莊的2013年赤霞珠在美國橡木桶中陳放了11個月。這款帶有濃郁黑色水果和醋栗風味的葡萄酒在經過桶中陳年以後，獲得了額外的小茴香和其他甘香料的風味。
來自中國雲南的傲雲酒莊出產的2013波爾多混釀不僅酒體飽滿，在經過橡木桶陳年後，原本帶有黑色和紅色櫻桃風味的葡萄酒又多了一絲杜松，胡椒和小茴香的氣息。
Many of us will be familiar with the aroma and flavour of the spice cumin —either in powder or seed form— which is widely used across Middle Eastern and Indian cuisines. It comes from the dried seedsof the cumin herb, which is part of the parsley family.
Cumin is relatively mild aromatic spice,typified by an earthy or woody flavours and aromas, with a bitter undertone. Itfeatures in the spice category of the wine lexicon, alongside notes like blackpepper, cardamom, nutmeg and anise.
You can look for cumin notes in some orangewines, which sometimes glean an extra earthy, bitter spice edge from prolongedskin contact.
For example, Albert Mathier et Fils,Amphore Assemblage 2010, from Switzerland’s Valais region, has a honeyed cinnamon nose that comes through as ‘cumin, tea leaf and dry tobacco’ on the palate.
Elsewhere, some premium cool-climate Pino tNoir wines can develop delicately earthy and mildly spicy notes that resonate with cumin.
Peter Michael Winery’s Le Caprice Estate Pinot Noir 2013, made in Sonoma County’s Fort Ross-Seaview AVA, was praised byWilliam Kelley as ‘the most supple and ethereal of the Pinots bursting withperfumed notes of rose petal, clove, cumin and black fruit’.
Full-bodied reds can also develop spicy characteristics, such as cumin, usually gained from time spent in oak.
Ringbolt, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 from Margaret River — matured for 11 months in American oak — has a ‘touch of cuminand dried herb on the nose’, which adds complexity to the cassis and dark fruitflavours.
Similarly, Ao Yun 2013, a full-bodied Bordeaux blend from southern China’s Yunnan province, was noted for its ‘sweetblack and red cherry fruit’ flavours, which are counter-balanced by bitter-edged oak influences: ‘juniper, pepper and cumin’.
青椒 GREEN PEPPER
有的人炒菜喜歡用風味更甜美的紅黃彩椒而非青椒。但在葡萄酒的品鑑中，新鮮的青椒風味是一個特別有用的品酒詞。
侍酒師Laura Ortiz解釋道：“赤霞珠中的青椒風味源自3-異丁基-2-甲氧基吡嗪。這麼一長串的化學式人們可能看了就忘了，但青椒的風味應該沒有人會不知道。”
如果來自加州和智利的赤霞珠 中出現青椒風味，那麼是一個加分項，因為當中的青椒風味可以和酒中的黑色水果（如醋栗）相輔相成。但我們並不希望在波爾多的赤霞珠中聞到過多的青椒風味，這股綠色蔬菜或是葉子味意味著用來釀酒的葡萄並沒有成熟。
來自新西蘭和南非的長相思也會帶有類似於青椒的蔬菜味，有的人喜歡這股風味，有的人則會更偏好帶有更多礦物味的長相思，比如盧瓦河谷的普伊芙美長相思。
注意：可不要將青椒風味和辣椒或是綠胡椒弄混了。綠胡椒在品酒詞中屬於香料家族。
In cooking, some people avoid these peppersin favour of their sweeter red and yellow counterparts. But in wine, the sharply savoury aroma of a freshly-sliced green bell pepper makes it a useful tasting reference.
Sommelier Laura Ortiz explains the science:‘When we smell green pepper in Cabernet Sauvignon, we are recognising the pyrazine, 3-isobutyl-2-methoxy piracina. A name we seldom remember, but it isimpossible to forget the aroma of green pepper.’
The term green pepper can be used positively, as with some Cabernet Sauvignons from California and Chile, whereit can be enjoyed as a counter-balance to the black fruit flavours like cassis.However, in those of Bordeaux a green character is less desirable, as it often taken to be a sign of under-ripeness, along with vegetal or leafy notes.
In white wines: new world Sauvignon Blancs, such as those of New Zealand and South Africa, commonly display vegetal notes like green pepper. Some people enjoy this green herbaceous character, while others prefer the more mineral examples from Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé.
Note: You may see it being alluded to underthe bracket of capsicum, which simply refers to the pepper plant genus. Also, it’s not be confused with terms like ‘ground green pepper’ or ‘greenpeppercorns’, which refer to the peppercorn spice and not the bell pepper.
奶油 CREAM
品酒詞中的“奶油”一詞可能會讓我們一頭霧水。的確，發酵的葡萄汁和奶製品又有啥關係呢？但除了奶油以外，品酒詞中可有不少奶製品詞彙：黃油，芝士和酸奶。
這些奶製品的風味會出現在使用了蘋果酸-乳酸發酵 的葡萄酒中。這種工藝是用細菌將尖銳的蘋果酸轉換成柔和的乳酸，帶給酒宛如奶油的的奶製品風味。
蘋果酸乳酸發酵的過程中會出現二乙酰這種化學物質，正是這種化學物質讓葡萄酒帶有了奶油，黃油或是奶油糖果的風味。
二乙酰也會給葡萄酒帶來更為柔和和粘稠的口感，讓人不禁聯想到奶油。
如果葡萄酒經歷了酒泥陳年或是攪桶，那麼酒泥便會賦予葡萄酒宛如奶油的口感。
在橡木桶中進行發酵的葡萄酒也會帶有類似於奶油的乳製品口感，當然木桶還會賦予酒焦糖，椰子，吐司以及香草風味。這些風味在白葡萄酒中表現明顯——產自勃艮第的霞多麗尤為如此。
典型葡萄酒：
Domaine Jomain, Chardonnay, Bourgogne 2014
Domaine François Carillon, BourgogneChardonnay 2014
Domaine Guffens Heynen, Tris des Hauts desVignes, Pouilly-Fuisse 2014
如果用於起泡酒的基酒的發酵過程在橡木桶中進行，那麼我們在品嚐這些起泡酒時也會找到奶製品的風味。
來自南非Klein Constantia酒莊的2009 Cap Classique Brut的基酒發便是在桶中發酵，二次發酵完成後進行了21個月的酒泥陳年，它們賦予了酒奶油以及松露奶油芬芳，在味蕾中也能明顯感受到凝脂奶油的風味。
來自朗格多克-露喜龍的2012 Paul Mas Crémant de Limoux “AstéliaGrande Réserve Brut”，其中有一部分的基酒進行了桶中發酵，這也給酒帶來了一絲木頭以及奶油的風味。
You might see ‘cream’ in tasting notes and feel a little confused — surely, fermented grape juice has little to do withdairy products? However, dairy is a category in the wine-tasting lexicon,including notes like butter, cheese and yoghurt, alongside cream.
These flavours can arise from winemaking practices, namely malolactic fermentation (MLF) — the process by which bacteria converts sharp-tasting malic acid into softer lactic acid, the same that’s found in dairy products like cream.
The chemical compound diacetyl is a natural byproduct of MLF and it can give wines a rich creamy, buttery or butterscotch odour.
In addition, diacetyl can change themouthfeel of wines, giving them a smoother and more viscose texture, as mightbe associated with cream.
A creamy mouthfeel can also be achieved through lees influences, gained by winemaking practices involving lees contact:resting the wines sur lie (on the lees) or bâtonnage (stirring the lees).
You might find lactic notes like cream inbarrel-fermented wines, too, alongside other complex flavours and aromas suchas caramel, coconut, toast and vanilla. This is mostly found in white wines,particularly Chardonnays from Burgundy.
SEE: Domaine Jomain, Chardonnay, Bourgogne2014 | Domaine François Carillon, Bourgogne Chardonnay 2014 | Domaine GuffensHeynen, Tris des Hauts des Vignes, Pouilly-Fuisse 2014
You can also look for creamy lactic notesin barrel-fermented sparkling wines that have received lees contact:
Klein Constantia, Cap Classique Brut 2009 from South Africa was barrel-fermented and lees-aged for 21 months, resultingin ‘developed cream’ notes combining with truffle aromas, with a layer of ‘clotted cream’ on the palate.
In the case of Paul Mas, Crémant de Limoux, Astélia Grande Réserve Brut 2012 from Languedoc-Roussillon, only a portion ofthe base wine was barrel-fermented, giving just a subtle ‘touch of wood and cream’.
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