最全夏布利產區各大特級園詳解:上篇


最全夏布利產區各大特級園詳解:上篇


夏布利鎮東北面過西連溪到右岸,鄰近Fye和 Poinchy兩村的交界處,是特級園的所在。這片離河岸不遠的山坡,是典型的夏布利風景。山頂是樹林,底下是肥沃的耕地,山坡上是佈滿白灰色 Kimmeridgian泥灰岩與風化土壤的葡萄園。兩個一大一小的背斜谷切過,讓這片朝東南的山坡相當多樣,甚至帶點戲劇性的地形變化。由東往西共有七片,總面積102.92公頃。


布隆修( Blanchot,12.7公頃)

位於最東邊往Fye村的峽谷邊緣,地勢狹迫陡峭,是唯一朝向東南方的夏布利特級園。這裡可接收較多晨間的光照,但較少午後的陽光,因谷地效應,受到較多寒涼北風的影響,酒的風格較為細緻優雅,常混合白花與礦石香氣,酒體較輕巧,很少濃厚粗獷,酸味也許較漂亮乾淨,但不那麼堅強有力。Laroche的面積最大,獨擁4.5公頃, Vocoret et Fils(1.7公頃)和ong -Depaquit-(1.65公頃)次之。


最全夏布利產區各大特級園詳解:上篇


克羅(Les Clos,26公頃)

面積最大,也最知名的,是許多酒評家與本地釀酒師心中最佳的夏布利特級園。除了邊緣兩側外,克羅方正完整,正面幾乎完全朝向西南邊,有極佳的向陽效果,讓霞多麗葡萄有很好的成熟度。由坡底到山頂共爬升80米,各區段的自然條件差異頗大,坡頂多石少土,雖有許多 Kimmerigien岩石,但也混有一些自山頂沖刷下來的 Portlandien硬石塊,相當貧瘠,但排水性佳,酒風較硬挺。坡底雖然也有非常多的石塊,但土壤較多,較肥沃,質地黏密一些,有較多黏土質,酒風偏飽滿。


克羅分別由二十多家酒莊擁有, William Fevre獨佔4.11公頃,主要位於高坡處。僅次其後, Louis和 Christian Moreau兩家各擁有3.6公頃,主要在下坡處,這兩家酒莊還對分園內一片佔地0.8公頃的獨佔園 Clos des Hospices,這個葡萄園曾為夏布利濟貧醫院的產業,名稱經過法國法定產區管理局認可,可直接標示在標籤上。同樣位處坡頂的還有 Vincent Dauvissat,而 Raveneau、 Vocoret et Fils、 Louis Michel et Fils和ong- -Depaquit則位於中坡處, Domaine des Malandes較偏坡底。不過,也有許多酒莊在山坡的上下都有葡萄園,如Pinson、 Drouhin-Vaudon-、 Benoit Droin等。


最全夏布利產區各大特級園詳解:上篇

即使有上下坡段的差別,克羅的酒風還是非常明顯,是最具主宰性的夏布利白酒,有厚實且具重量感的酒體、鋼鐵般的強硬酸味及近似火藥般的礦石氣,通常不太適合早喝,需要一點時間熟成。因為個性強烈,許多酒莊會特別使用橡木桶來釀造,於是,受一點木桶的影響,有木香與圓潤的質地也變成酒的特色。克羅的酒成為比較近似博恩丘風格的夏布利酒,但其酸味與礦石氣,卻是博恩丘白酒所不可及的。


最全夏布利產區各大特級園詳解:上篇


瓦密爾(Valmur,13.2公頃)

緊鄰克羅的瓦密爾位置較高,雖同是面向西南邊的山坡,但有一個小型背斜谷從中穿過,在山坡上侵蝕成一個有南北兩坡的小谷。北邊一面略朝東南,如 Christian Moreau、 Droin、 Raveneau、 Moreau-Naudet-、 Vocoret et Fils和一部分的 William Fevre,而南邊則略朝西北,如面積最大的Guy Robin(2.6公頃)和次之的Jean-Claude Bessin(2.08公頃)南北兩坡的風格亦有所不同,略朝北最上坡處的Jean- Claude Bessin有非常鋒利冷冽的酸味,年輕時嚴謹內斂,需要很漫長的瓶中培養才能熟成適飲。朝南邊的瓦密爾產出的酒體雖然較圓厚一些,但仍然是強硬型的夏布利風格,需要時間熟化才能有比較多的柔情。在較炎熱的年份亦能有堅挺的酸味支撐。


最全夏布利產區各大特級園詳解:上篇


格內爾( Grenouilles,9.3公頃)

位於瓦密爾下坡處,坡度比較和緩,山勢由西南轉向正面朝南,鄰近西連溪畔,因常有蛙鳴聲而稱為格內爾(“青蛙園”的意思)。在七片特級園中面積最小,較為少見,大部分為屬於 La Chablisienne的 Chateau格內爾(7.5公頃)所獨佔,雖然不是真的有城堡,但 Chateau Grenouilles也是法定產區管理局所認可的名稱,可直接標示。Droin(0.5公頃)和 Louis Michel et Fils(0.5公頃)在稍陡一點的高坡處也有葡萄園。格內爾的風格較為柔和,豐富多香,但不是特別強硬,礦石味也少一些,年輕時較瓦密爾和克羅更可口易飲。


最全夏布利產區各大特級園詳解:上篇

Detailed explanation of the major super parks in the most complete Chablis production area: Part I


The northeast of Chablis town crosses the Xilian River to the right bank, near the junction of the two villages of Fye and Poinchy, where the super park is located. This hillside not far from the river bank is a typical Chablis landscape. The top of the hill is wooded, the bottom is fertile arable land, and the slope is covered with white-gray Kimmeridgian marl and weathered soil. Two large and one small anticline valleys cut across, making this southeast-facing hillside quite diverse, even with dramatic terrain changes. There are seven pieces from east to west, with a total area of ​​102.92 hectares.

Bloomhot (12.7 ha)

Located on the edge of the canyon on the far east towards Fye village, the terrain is narrow and steep, and it is the only Chablis super park facing southeast. It can receive more morning light, but less afternoon sunlight. Due to the valley effect, it is affected by more cold and cold north winds. The style of the wine is more delicate and elegant. It often mixes white flowers and mineral aromas, and the wine is lighter. Rarely thick and rough, the acidity may be more beautiful and clean, but not so strong. Laroche has the largest area with 4.5 hectares, followed by Vocoret et Fils (1.7 hectares) and ong -Depaquit- (1.65 hectares).


Clos (Les Clos, 26 hectares)

The largest and most well-known is the best Chablis in the hearts of many wine critics and local winemakers. Except for the two sides of the edge, the Croissant is intact, and the front is almost completely facing the southwest side. It has an excellent sunny effect, which makes Chardonnay grapes have good maturity. A total of 80 meters climbed from the bottom of the slope to the top of the mountain. The natural conditions of each section are quite different. The top of the slope is more rocky and less soil. Although there are many Kimmerigien rocks, there are also some Portlandien hard stones washed down from the top of the mountain. But the drainage is good, and the wind is stiff. Although there are a lot of stones at the bottom of the slope, the soil is more fertile, the texture is denser, there is more clay, and the wind is full.

Carlo is owned by more than two dozen wineries, with William Fevre occupying 4.11 hectares, mainly on high slopes. After that, Louis and Christian Moreau each own 3.6 hectares, mainly on the downhill. The two wineries also occupy a 0.8 hectare exclusive park Clos des Hospices in the branch. This vineyard was once Chablis The industry of the poor hospital can be directly labeled on the label after its name has been approved by the French legal production area authority. Also on the top of the slope is Vincent Dauvissat, while Raveneau, Vocoret et Fils, Louis Michel et Fils, and ong-Depaquit are on the middle slope, and Domaine des Malandes is on the bottom of the slope. However, there are many wineries with vineyards up and down the hillside, such as Pinson, Drouhin-Vaudon-, Benoit Droin, etc.

44.jpg Even if there is a difference between the upslope and downslope, Caro's wine style is still very obvious. It is the most dominant Chablis liquor. It has a thick and weighty body, a steel-like strong acidity, and an approximate gunpowder Mineral gas is usually not suitable for early drinking, it takes a little time to mature. Because of its strong personality, many wineries will use oak barrels for brewing. Therefore, with the influence of a little wooden barrels, the woody aroma and round texture also become the characteristics of the wine. Carlo's wine has become a Chablis that is more similar to the Bonnchu style, but its sourness and mineral gas are beyond the reach of the Bonnchu white wine.


Valmur (13.2 ha)

The location of Wamil, which is close to Kro, is higher. Although it is also facing the southwest slope, there is a small anticline valley passing through it, which erodes into a small valley with two slopes, north and south. The north side is slightly southeast, such as Christian Moreau, Droin, Raveneau, Moreau-Naudet-, Vocoret et Fils and part of William Fevre, while the south side is slightly northwest, such as the largest Guy Robin (2.6 ha) and Jean -Claude Bessin (2.08 hectares) The styles of the north and south slopes are also different. Jean-Claude Bessin, which is slightly uphill at the north, has a very sharp and cold sour taste. It is rigorous and restrained when it is young, and it takes a long time to cultivate in a bottle to mature. Drink well. Although the wine produced by Wamil, facing the south, is relatively round and thick, it is still a strong Chablis style. It takes time to mature to have more tenderness. It can also be supported by a strong acidity in hotter years.


Grenouilles (9.3 ha)

It is located at the downhill of Wamil, the slope is relatively gentle, the mountain changes from southwest to front south, near the bank of Xilian River, and it is called Gnell (meaning "frog garden") because of frequent frogs. Of the seven super gardens, the area is the smallest and relatively rare. Most of it is exclusively owned by Chateau Gner (7.5 hectares) belonging to La Chablisienne. Although it does not really have a castle, Chateau Grenouilles is also a name recognized by the legal production area authority. Can be marked directly. Droin (0.5 ha) and Louis Michel et Fils (0.5 ha) also have vineyards on slightly steeper slopes. Gnell's style is softer, richer and more fragrant, but not particularly strong, and less of a mineral taste. In his youth, he was more delicious and easy to drink than Wamil and Crowe.


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