岡仁波齊峰有史以來唯一一份來自知名登山家的攀登結論和路線參考圖(珍貴史料)

英國登山家Colonel R. C. Wilson在1926年對岡仁波齊峰進行了認真的攀登偵察後,得出以下結論:

Wilson drew the folloWING conclusions from his day's

reconnaissance:

Should fate again take me to Torcheri [sic] with a couple of days

to spare, I should make for the ridge HF, moving either round the

foot of D or via Kyangda and over ridge FD. I should expect to

get on the ridge HF about point F and to have an easy passage to

the foot ofthe final ascent. A reasonably cornfortable camp could

be made here and the carriers sent down again to the foot of F for

the night.

Next day the carriers could return to H and remove camp to the

foot of F, whilst the climbers went on to the top and back. As

regards altitudes, Torchen is probably about I 5, 500 feet, point H

about 20,000 and the summit is 22,028.

The photograph shows the final slope to be reasonable. though

the snow might be found powdery and treacherous.

Should the route suggested above prove impracticable, an

alternative line to point H would be to leave C and the ridge HB

on one's right and to trust to finding a way up on to H from near

the foot of the mountain where the small glacier falls into the

valley and the niche with the images has been made.

In this EVENT one would have to be content with a light camp, as

the climb to H might prove too much for laden carriers.

Finally, there remains a third possible route: to get on up the long

N. ridge somewhere near the Dolma Pass.

(Wilson, Ibid .)

岡仁波齊峰有史以來唯一一份來自知名登山家的攀登結論和路線參考圖(珍貴史料)

為了幫助大家理解路線圖,我為大家在GE裡把H點給標上了,其它點可以對照獲得:

岡仁波齊峰有史以來唯一一份來自知名登山家的攀登結論和路線參考圖(珍貴史料)

關於攀登岡仁波齊峰,梅斯內爾說過 If we conquer this mountain, then we conquer something in people's souls. I would suggest they go and climb something a little harder. kailas is not so high and not so hard

這段話裡,梅斯內爾在最後一部分提到岡仁波齊峰不高也不難,海拔6000多米的確不算高,不難這種說法就很睜著眼說瞎話了, 早在1926年,英國登山家Hugh Ruttledge已經研究過岡仁波齊峰的北壁, 他估算岡仁波齊峰的北壁有 6,000 英寸 (1,800 米) 高,並認為它是"utterly unclimbable",別看梅斯內爾已經功成名就,也許這塊北壁就足以讓他折戟沉沙了,任何一座山峰都不應該被輕視,何況這是Kailas

梅斯內爾自從獲得登山皇帝的稱號後,非常喜歡對什麼事情都發表一通自己的看法,其中有很多說法都是不切實際的,與事實相去甚遠

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