Karl Lagerfeld Dies; A High Priest Of High Fashion
時尚教主卡爾拉格斐逝世
German designer Karl Lagerfeld died in Paris, according to fashion house LVMH, owner of Fendi. He is seen here at the end of Chanel's 2019 women's ready-to-wear show in Paris, where a beach was created to show off Lagerfeld's collection.
Stephane Mahe/Reuters
據芬迪[Fendi]品牌所屬的高端時尚集團路易威登消息，德國設計師卡爾拉格斐於巴黎逝世。香奈兒2019年拉格斐女性高級成衣系列在巴黎展出。展臺被搭建成一個海灘，閉幕時卡爾露面。
fashion house
N an establishment in which fashionable clothes are designed, made, and sold 高級時裝店.
編者注*：因在本文中LVMH其實是一個大的時尚精品集團，故house 譯為集團更合適。
ready-to-wear
ADJ Ready-to-wear clothes are made in standard sizes so that they fit most people, rather than being made specially for a particular person. (衣服)現成的; 非定製的; 即買即穿的 [ADJ n]
Karl Lagerfeld, the German designer who was the artistic director of Chanel and Fendi and also created his own brand, has died in Paris. For years, Lagerfeld sought to obscure his age; he was reportedly 85.
香奈兒和芬迪的藝術總監，也創建了自主品牌的德國設計師卡爾拉格斐已於巴黎去世。據報導，拉格斐逝世時享年85歲，多年來，他一直對自己的年齡諱莫如深。
Seek to obscure 有意隱瞞，諱莫如深
obscure /əbˈskjʊə/
ADJ If something or someone is obscure, they are unknown, or are known by only a few people. 鮮為人知的
ADJ Something that is obscure is difficult to understand or deal with, usually because it involves so many parts or details. 複雜難懂的; 難處理的
V-T If one thing obscures another, it prevents it from being seen or heard properly. 遮掩
V-T To obscure something means to make it difficult to understand. 使…難懂
Lagerfeld worked with some of fashion's biggest design houses, showing a knack for reinventing classic styles with innovative flourishes. In the process, he brought Fendi to new heights in the 1960s and revamped Chanel after being named that brand's director in the 1980s.
拉格斐曾與時尚界數個大牌工作室合作，展現出重塑經典，令其煥然一新的鬼才。在此期間，他曾於上世紀60年代帶領Fendi節節高升，在80年代擔任香奈兒品牌總監後亦令其脫胎換骨。
knack /næk/
N-COUNT A knack is a particularly clever or skillful way of doing something successfully, especially something which most people find difficult. 訣竅
reinvent /ˌriːɪnˈvɛnt/
V-T To reinvent something means to change it so that it seems different and new. 徹底改變; 改造
flourish /ˈflʌrɪʃ/
V-I If something flourishes, it is successful, active, or common, and developing quickly and strongly. 繁榮; 興旺
revamp /riːˈvæmp/
V-T If someone revamps something, they make changes to it in order to try and improve it. 修改; 改進
N-SING Revamp is also a noun. 修改; 改進
Chanel announced the designer's death Tuesday, less than a month after he uncharacteristically missed shows for the fashion house, prompting questions about his health.
香奈兒於星期二發佈設計師訃告。不到一個月前，他曾不同以往地缺席了該品牌的時裝秀，令外界不免擔憂他的健康。
uncharacteristically [,ʌn,kæriktə'ristikli ]
adv. in uncharacteristic manner不典型地；非同尋常地； 一反常態地
As news of his death spread, Lagerfeld's peers in the fashion industry quickly paid tribute to a figure who was at once immediately recognizable and endlessly enigmatic.
拉格斐的死訊傳開後，時尚界的同仁們迅速向這位曾經一下子變得無人不識卻又高深莫測的人表示致敬。
recognizable /ˌrɛkəɡˈnaɪzəbəl/ BRIT also recognisable
ADJ If something can be easily recognized or identified, you can say that it is easily recognizable. 可辨認的; 可認出的
enigmatic /ˌɛnɪɡˈmætɪk/
ADJ Someone or something that is enigmatic is mysterious and difficult to understand. 神秘難解的
"Karl your genius touched the lives of so many, especially Gianni and I," said Donatella Versace . "We will never forget your incredible talent and endless inspiration. We were always learning from you."
"卡爾你的天分影響了無數人，特別是吉安尼和我"唐納特納範思哲在Ins上寫道"我們將永不忘記你那不可思議的才華和永無止境的啟迪，我們一直都在向您學習"
"With the passing of Karl Lagerfeld we have lost a creative genius who helped to make Paris the fashion capital of the world and Fendi one of the most innovative Italian houses," said Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of Fendi owner LVMH. "We owe him a great deal: his taste and talent were the most exceptional I have ever known."
卡爾的逝世讓我們痛失一位創意天才。巴黎能成為世界時尚之都，芬迪能成為最具創新力的意大利時尚品牌，卡爾功不可沒",路易威登集團董事長兼總經理伯納德阿諾特說，"他帶給我們太多：以我所知，他的品味和天才無與倫比。"
Discussing Lagerfeld's style, NPR's Susan Stamberg :
"For instance, a daysuit ... with a typical Chanel cardigan jacket, outlined at the neck and waistline, of wool boucle in ivory and beige, with shots of coral. The lining is silk. The real Lagerfeld part: the illusion of unraveling wool, laced with color, at the skirt and cuffs."
說到拉格斐的風格，NPR編輯蘇三斯坦伯格2005年曾言："比如說一件日裝…配上經典的香奈兒開襟羊毛衫-用乳白色或米黃色羊毛呢在領口及腰身修邊，間或綴以珊瑚色, 裡襯是真絲的。 拉格斐的精髓在於讓裙襬及袖口附有著色花邊的不織羊毛製造錯覺。
cardigan /ˈkɑːdɪɡən/
N-COUNT A cardigan is a knitted woollen sweater that you can fasten at the front with buttons or a zipper. 開襟羊毛衫
boucle [bu:'klei]
Noun. 毛圈花式線；仿羔皮呢，珠皮呢
unravel /ʌnˈrævəl/
1. V-T/V-I If you unravel something that is knotted, woven, or knitted, or if it unravels, it becomes one straight piece again or separates into its different threads. 解開; 拆散
2. V-T/V-I If you unravel a mystery or puzzle, or it unravels, it gradually becomes clearer until you can work out the answer to it. 揭開
Lagerfeld acknowledges applause following a Chanel show in Paris in 2013. Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images
2013年香奈兒時裝秀結束後，拉格斐接受觀眾喝彩
With his trademark ponytail and dark glasses, Lagerfeld was a fixture in the world's art hubs, fashion's high priest in a tailored black jacket. He once called his glasses "my burka" and referred to his public image as a mask, a caricature of himself that he embraced.
留著招牌式馬尾髮型，戴著墨鏡，穿著量身定做的黑夾克，拉格斐曾是世界各個藝術中心的常客，時尚界的教主。
He also was famous for speaking his mind, with a quick wit and a knack for making outrageous comments.
Women can be short, but for men it is impossible. It is something that they will not forgive in life ... they are mean and they want to kill you."
他也是出了名的直言不諱，常常心直口快，語出驚人。
"生活不是什麼選美比賽，有些"醜人" 真的是多作怪" 拉格斐曾說, " 我討厭猥瑣醜陋的人，尤其是又醜又矮的男人。女人矮還可以原諒，男人矮卻萬萬不能，因為他們始終會耿耿於懷，會很刻薄，恨不得可以殺人。"
On more practical matters, Lagerfeld called the garbage can the most important thing in a house. The designer also condemned a common piece of clothing by linking it with an existential calamity: "Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life so you bought some sweatpants."
還有一個實錘，拉格斐曾把垃圾箱視作一個家裡最重要的東西。他還把一件常見的衣物同存在主義災難聯繫到一塊並加以譴責: "運動褲是失敗的象徵，只有生活失控的人才會買運動褲。"
existential /ˌɛɡzɪˈstɛnʃəl/
ADJ Existential means relating to human existence and experience. 人類存在的 [正式] 有關存在的；
calamity /kəˈlæmɪtɪ/
N-VAR A calamity is an event that causes a great deal of damage, destruction, or personal distress. 災難 [正式]
Lagerfeld often spoke about women's weight and appearance, and he gravitated toward beautiful models and actresses, from Kate Moss to Kristen Stewart. But he was sharply criticized last year over comments that chided models as well as the MeToo movement — "I'm fed up with it," he said, in an interview in which he said models who don't want to be touched should join a nunnery.
拉格斐經常對女性的體重和外表評頭論足，他青睞漂亮的模特和演員，從凱特摩斯到克里斯汀斯圖爾特。不過去年針對模特及MeToo運動的一番責罵言論也是他遭到尖銳批評。 " 我受夠了"，在一次採訪中他說："做模特摸都不讓摸，那不如進尼姑庵。"
In response, the issued a statement saying in part, "Times have changed — and, with it, fashion's moral standing and accountability must as well."
作為回應，模特聯盟發表了一份申明說: 時代已經變了，因該跟著變的還有時尚界人士的人品和道德責任。
Lagerfeld with models Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen and Claudia Schiffer at a Chanel show in 1993.
Lionel Cironneau/Associated Press
拉格斐和模特辛迪克勞福德，海萊娜 克里斯汀以及克勞迪詩菲爾在1993年的香奈兒秀場
A contemporary and friend of both Yves Saint Laurent and Andy Warhol, Lagerfeld was prolific in the design world and active on the business front, selling his namesake label to Tommy Hilfiger in 2004. He also forged partnerships with H&M and Macy's, in a bid to further his reach beyond high-end fashion.
作為伊芙斯.聖.勞倫和安迪-沃霍爾的同時代好友，拉格菲爾德在設計領域是很多產的，同時在商業上也很活躍，他曾將自己的同名品牌於2004年賣給湯米.希爾費格。他同時還與H&M和梅西百貨的合作，以此拓展自己在高端時尚業意外的活動。
Lagerfeld's celebrity also extended into films, from Pedro Almodovar's High Heels in 1991 to Julie Delpy's Lolo in 2016.
拉格菲爾德同時還在電影界有所涉足，他在1991年曾出演佩德羅.阿莫多瓦的《高跟鞋》以及2016年出演了朱莉.德爾佩的電影《洛洛》。
While he created a personal empire in the world of luxury and couture, Lagerfeld occasionally was upbraided for living a profligate lifestyle, amassing art and furniture and seemingly using his personal life to mirror the spectacles he created for fashion houses.
在一手打造自己的奢侈品及時裝帝國時，拉格斐也因自己揮霍無度的生活作風飽受爭議。他大肆收藏藝術品及傢俱，似乎想用自己的生活闡述他為那些時尚大牌所創造的奢華感。
Lagerfeld dismissed criticisms of his spending habits, saying, "If you throw money out of the window, throw it out with joy. Don't say: 'One shouldn't do that' — that is bourgeois."
對於自己生活習慣的批評，拉格斐置之不理，他說："假如要把錢丟出窗外，那就痛痛快快地丟。不要說什麼 ：'你不能這樣'—那太中產階級了。"
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