“我真的不在乎”：梅拉尼婭的外套穿給誰看？
Melania Trump, Agent of Coat Chaos
VANESSA FRIEDMAN
2018年6月22日
“I REALLY DON’T CARE, DO U?”
“我真的不在乎，你呢？”(I REALLY DON’T CARE, DO U?)
When the first lady, Melania Trump, on a surprise humanitarian visit to a children’s shelter in Texas, strode onto her airplane in an olive green Zara army jacket with those words scrawled in faux white graffiti on the back, it sent the watching world into what might be called, with some understatement, a meltdown.
在突然赴德克薩斯州一座兒童收容設施做人道主義訪問時，第一夫人梅拉尼婭·特朗普(Melania Trump)是身穿一件橄欖綠色Zara軍裝外套走上飛機的，夾克背後用白色仿塗鴉風格潦草地寫了這樣一句話。保守地說，這令圍觀者可以說是陷入了一種崩潰狀態。
“Insensitive,” “heartless” and “unthinking” were some of the words hurled through the digisphere about the choice.
“冷漠”、“無情”和“欠考慮”，數字媒體上紛紛這樣評價她的著裝選擇。
“It’s a jacket,” her communications director, Stephanie Grisham, said in a statement to reporters. “There was no hidden message.”
She’s right, of course. It wasn’t hidden. It was literally written on the first lady’s back. The question is: Who was the intended audience?
當然，她是對的。沒有什麼隱藏。都直接寫在第一夫人的背上了。問題是：這是給誰看的呢？
The assumption implicit in the outrage is that the message was meant for those Mrs. Trump was meeting. But here’s the thing: The first lady has had some experience with the attention paid when she boards planes.
她引發的憤慨中暗含著這樣的假設：這個信息是給那些要和特朗普夫人會面的人看的。但是有一件事值得注意：對於在登機時所受的關注，第一夫人已經有了一些經驗。
She knows everyone is going to be watching. Remember back in August 2017 when she walked across the tarmac at Joint Base Andrews in sky-high Manolo stilettos during the Texas flood crisis? At that time, the shoes seemed to symbolize her enormous remove from the trauma, and she became the target of great opprobrium for the choice.She is well aware that nothing a first lady wears is “just” an anything, especially nothing she wears to a public event in which she remains silent, but knows she will be photographed — as her experience with the high heels to Texas would have taught her (and taught her advisers).
她知道所有人都在看。還記得2017年8月德克薩斯州洪水危機期間，她穿著莫羅(Manolo)細高跟鞋走過安德魯斯聯合基地(Joint Base Andrews)停機坪時的情形嗎？當時那雙鞋子似乎象徵著她與那場災難距離遙遠，她也因為那個選擇受到大量譴責。如今她清楚地知道，第一夫人穿的任何衣服都不“僅僅是”一件衣服而已，特別是她在不開口發言的公開活動中所穿的衣服，而且她知道，她會被鏡頭拍下來——這就是穿高跟鞋去德克薩斯的經歷可能教會她的東西（而且可能也教會了她的顧問）。
梅拉尼婭今天前往德州看望兒童時穿的外套。
梅拉尼婭今天前往德州看望兒童時穿的外套。 CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTY IMAGES
To accept the idea she just threw the Zara jacket on in practically the same situation because — hey, it was close at hand and she was maybe a little bit cool (or something like that) is simply unbelievable.
在這樣一個跟上次其實差不多的場合，她穿上這麼一件Zara夾克，你要讓我相信她只是隨手拿了一件衣服，而且還說明她挺酷的（或是別的什麼特質），那真是太不可思議了。
Especially because this time around Mrs. Trump chose to wear something from the mass market brand Zara — Zara! — instead of her usual Dolce & Gabbana or Ralph Lauren. This is a first lady, after all, who decided to wear a $1,380 Balmain plaid shirt during a White House gardening initiative. She is not a high/low dresser in public — or has never been since the election. She’s been all high seemingly all the time.
特別是因為，這次特朗普夫人選擇了大眾市場品牌Zara——Zara！——而不是她平時穿的杜嘉班納(Dolce ＆ Gabbana)或者拉夫·勞倫(Ralph Lauren)。這畢竟是第一夫人，她在白宮的一次園藝倡導活動上選了1380美元的Balmain格子襯衫。她在公眾場合的著裝並不是價格時高時低——或者從選舉以來就不是這樣。她服裝的價錢似乎一直很高。
So how else to interpret the Zara jacket, a style in line with the signature self-protective aesthetic she has developed since entering the White House, except as an indication Mrs. Trump was thinking about what people might read into the clothes she chose to wear to visit children left with, effectively, nothing?
所以還能怎麼解讀這件Zara夾克呢——它的風格延續了她進入白宮以來形成的標誌性自我保護美學——只能說特朗普夫人肯定想到了，她在看望那些被拋下的孩子們時選擇的服裝會被人們進行解讀，難道不是隻有這種可能嗎？
The jacket, after all, which is reportedly sold out and is not from the current season, retailed for $39. It may be the least expensive garment the first lady has worn while representing the administration.
畢竟，據報道，這件外套已經售罄，而且它不屬於本季時裝，零售價為39美元（合253元人民幣）。這可能是第一夫人在代表政府時穿過的最便宜的服裝。
And then there’s the fact that Mrs. Trump has never been one to shy away from coding pointed, not necessarily, popular communications into her wardrobe. She did, after all, wear a white trouser suit — the uniform of the Hillary Clinton-led opposition — to her husband’s first State of the Union address.
其次，事實上，特朗普夫人的衣櫥裡從來沒有迴避過著裝規則通行的（不一定是必須的）服裝溝通方式。畢竟，她在丈夫第一次發表國情諮文演講時穿了白色褲套裝——那是希拉里·克林頓(Hillary Clinton)領導下的反對派的制服。
All of which suggests there is very little chance she did not know what she was doing with that “I really don’t care” coat. (Zara declined to comment.)So who was the target of that not-so-hidden message? That the first lady had shed the jacket by the time she disembarked in Texas may indicate it was not, in fact, the families at the heart of the immigration issue. Besides, there are numerous alternative possibilities, when you start to think about it.
所有這些都表明，當她穿上這件寫著“我真的不在乎”的外套時，她不太可能不知道自己在做什麼（Zara拒絕發表評論）。那麼這個沒怎麼隱藏的消息到底是給誰看的？第一夫人在德克薩斯州下機時脫掉了這件外套，這可能表明受眾事實上不是那些處於移民問題核心的家庭。此外，如果你仔細想想，還有很多其他的可能性。
There was her husband’s interpretation, as expressed via his favorite communication method, Twitter.Or maybe the “I really don’t care” part was intended for critics of her husband’s policy. Maybe it was intended to tell everyone that she was not part of forming said policy, or not responsible for conveying everyone’s outrage about said policy.
她丈夫通過最喜歡的溝通方式Twitter做出瞭解釋。又或者“我真的不在乎”這部分是為了批評她丈夫的政策。也許是為了告訴大家，她沒有參與到上述政策中去，又或者是想說她沒有責任傳達每個人對上述政策的憤慨。
梅拉尼婭·特朗普離開馬里蘭的安德魯斯空軍基地。
梅拉尼婭·特朗普離開馬里蘭的安德魯斯空軍基地。 MANDEL NGAN/AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE — GETTY IMAGES
Maybe it was intended for her husband himself. (The “free Melania” folks will like this idea.)
也許它是給她丈夫本人看的（持“解放梅拉尼婭”觀點的人會喜歡這個想法。）
Or maybe, just maybe, it was a message for those of us who like to read messages into her clothes. One that said, “I’m going to wear whatever I want and I don’t care what you think about it.” After all, she wore the jacket again deplaning later at Andrews — wore it unapologetically knowing all the hoo-ha it had caused, the confusion and umbrage, the distraction from what she said was her core message of compassion. Wore it as if to give direct proof to the words on her back. That would be kind of meta.
或者，也許，只是也許，這是給我們這些喜歡從她的服裝中解讀出信息的人發送的信息。意思是：“我要穿什麼就穿什麼，我不在乎你怎麼想。”畢竟，後來她在安德魯斯下機時又穿上了這件外套——明知道它造成了那麼多的紛擾、困惑和不愉快，並且令人不去關注她說她想要表達的核心信息：同情——但她還是毫不在意地穿上了它。她穿著這件外套就好像在直接證明她背上的文字。這可能是一種自指。
Mrs. Trump often seems to be using her clothes as a sort of private diary, yet one that is parsed by millions who don’t have the rest of the text. Between intention and analysis an enormous gulf can exist. It’s a risky approach to her role.
特朗普夫人似乎經常把她的服裝當作一種私人日記，然而這份日記卻在被成千上百萬人分析，他們無法讀到這份日記其餘的文本。意圖和分析之間可能存在巨大的鴻溝。對她的角色來說，這是一種危險的方式。
And as interesting as the idea might be, this time it may have backfired.
這個想法雖然可能很有趣，但是這一次，它的效果可能適得其反。
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